The story of Fort Lauderdale's transformation from spring-break haven to stylish beach resort is more than a decade old. But it's a story that is still unfolding: The city, which already has a big-league theatrical complex, a trendy shopping district and a stately waterfront park, will become home to six major new resorts over the next couple of years. And business continues to boom at Port Everglades, one of the world's largest cruise ports and the winter home of the new Queen Mary 2. But the city hasn't completely forsaken its fun-in-the-sun past, epitomized by the 1960 film "Where the Boys Are." The bars along the beach still welcome revelers until the wee hours, and with an average water temperature of 72 degrees this time of year, the shore still beckons the Coppertone crowd.

Friday

6 p.m.

1) Dinner, American Style

Mark Militello helped put Fort Lauderdale on the culinary map with Mark's Las Olas (1032 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-463-1000), a hip spot on the main downtown strip that focuses on contemporary American cuisine with Florida accents. A classic example is Mr. Militello's creative rendition of grouper: he serves it crusted with crabmeat and accompanied by a wild-mushroom ragout, roasted potatoes and horseradish butter ($36). Save room for dessert, specifically the three-layer chocolate-hazelnut Kit Kat, a grown-up version of the candy bar ($10).

9 p.m.

2) Late-Night Revelry

The spirit of spring break is not dead; there are still plenty of places to let your inner frat boy run amok. Take Howl at the Moon (17 South Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard, 954-522-7553), part of the waterfront Beach Place shopping-dining complex. It's a dueling-pianos bar: two musicians, two keyboards and a whole bunch of inebriated patrons. There's a $5 to $10 cover charge on weekends. Also at Beach Place: Sally O'Brien's (17 South Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard, 954-522-4641), a slightly less raucous nightspot where the house band, Fire in the Kitchen, plays Irish favorites with gusto. For a mellower alternative, try the Golden Lyon Bar at the Riverside Hotel (620 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-467-0671), where the pianist is more likely to play Rachmaninoff than perform rock.

Saturday

8 a.m.

3) Beach Parade

A walk along Fort Lauderdale's famed beach will make you feel like you're part of a tropical parade, replete with joggers setting a brisk pace, parents pushing strollers and tourists taking in the view. Start at Sunrise Boulevard and head south to Las Olas Boulevard, the best stretch of shore in town. If you need to pause, take the overhead walkway to the Sheraton Yankee Trader Hotel (321 North Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard, 954-467-1111) for coffee.

10 a.m.

4) Going With the Flo

For generations of Fort Lauderdale residents, there has been one spot for a hearty breakfast — the Floridian Restaurant (1410 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-463-4041), or the Flo. This decades-old, 24-hour diner serves good grub at reasonable prices. For a morning meal that will carry you through dinner, try the grilled roast beef and eggs, served with home fries and a biscuit ($7.20). If you feel like splurging, opt for the fat-cat breakfast: steak, eggs and a bottle of Dom Pérignon ($229.99); the not-so-fat-cat substitutes "a bottle of our finest El Cheapo champagne" ($49.99).

11a.m.

Las Olas Stroll

Unlike so many renowned shopping strips, Las Olas Boulevard has a mix of everything from formal bridal shops to funky consignment stores. Heading east to west, spots worth checking out include Hibiscus Place (1406 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-463-6688), which carries vintage clothing, colorful lamps and other new and used treasures; Just Africa (1209 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-767-9220), which offers African furnishings and accessories; Joe Picasso's (888 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-462-2551), a pottery studio and cafe; and Lauderdale Lifestyle (819 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-524-5459), which specializes in Lilly Pulitzer resort wear. For a fast lunch, try the Mediterranean Market (1021 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-463-1212), which offers fancy sandwiches and salads and has some outdoor seating.

1 p.m.

6) Cruising With Carrie

The reputation of Fort Lauderdale as the Venice of America may be a bit overstated; you'll find it is a lot easier to get around town in a rental car than by gondola. But the city is still dominated by interconnected bodies of water, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Intracoastal Waterway to the New River, and by pricey housing on the waterfront. The Carrie B. is one of many cruise boats that ply this liquid wonderland (954-768-9920, www.carriebcruises.com): Its leisurely 90-minute tour, offered three times a day, affords a passing glimpse of several noteworthy homes, from a bachelor's pad featured on the "Miami Vice" television series to a handful of miniestates that belong to the Miami Dolphins owner H. Wayne Huizenga. The tour is $13.95 ($6.95 for children 11 and younger) and departs from the New River at SE Fifth Avenue, just off Las Olas Boulevard.

3 p.m.

Time for a History Lesson

A visit to the restored Stranahan House (335 SE Sixth Avenue, 954-524-4736) affords more than an opportunity to see Fort Lauder- dale's oldest surviving structure, dating from 1901. It's also a history lesson in how this city evolved from a Seminole campground to a winter playground for frozen Northerners. Over the years, the building has been a trading post, rooming house and restaurant. Tours are given on the hour, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and from 1 to 3 p.m. on Sunday. Admission is $6 ($3 for children under 12).

7:30 p.m.

8) In Praise of Kitsch

Remember the heyday of the tiki bar, when fruity rum drinks were served in Polynesian-themed glassware and pupu platters were the appetizer of choice? The Mai-Kai (3599 North Federal Highway, 954-563-3272) has never forgotten it. This Fort Lauderdale institution, founded in 1956, is a potent reminder of the state's pre-Disney, kitschy past. The menu may be predictable, but the food is far better than the standard tourist fare. On a recent visit, the pad thai ($18.95) and grilled mahi-mahi ($25) were winners, although the pupu platter ($13.95) was something of a greasy disappointment. Many dishes and drinks come with curious rituals: the striking of a gong or the lighting of a sparkler. Stick around for the 45-minute show ($9.95 cover charge, performed twice nightly), replete with hula-mad dancers and fire-twirling showmen.

Sunday

9 a.m.

9) A Riverside Ramble

The Riverwalk makes for a soothing way to start the day. It's more like a promenade that follows the curves of the New River. The park is also near attractions like the Broward Center for the Performing Arts (201 SW Fifth Avenue, 954-462-0222), the Museum of Art (1 East Las Olas Boulevard, 954-525-5500) and the Museum of Discovery and Science (401 SW Second Street, 954-467-6637). Even if you don't go inside the last, it's worth stopping to see the "Great Gravity Clock," a huge outdoor kinetic sculpture.

11:30 p.m.

10) Citrus, and Plenty More

No respectable Florida locale is without a good citrus shop, a place to load up on oranges, grapefruits and plastic souvenir alligators. At Mack's Groves (4405 North Ocean Drive in nearby Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, 954-776-0910), that concept gets an updated spin. Mack's has a plentiful assortment of citrus, beachwear, tropical furnishings and accessories. Looking for something unusual to take home? How about a wooden sign for $24.99 that says "Paradise Found"?

Visiting Fort Lauderdale

Several carriers serve Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport, which is about five miles from downtown and seven miles from the beach. A water taxi runs to major tourist destinations, and Tri-Rail, the South Florida commuter line, has service from Fort Lauderdale to Miami and West Palm Beach.

The Riverside Hotel (620 East Las Olas Boulevard, 800-325-3280) is a good option for downtown lodging. The 1930's hotel has an Old Florida feel but modern amenities. A recent $25 million expansion more than doubled the number of rooms to 217. Rates in the high season — through the middle of April — are $179 to $599.

If you want to be close to the beach, you can often find deals at the many 50's-era motels between Sunrise and Las Olas Boulevards. One solid choice is the Tropi Rock Resort (2900 Belmar Street, 800-987-9385), which has nice touches like free Internet service and a rooftop deck. High-season rates are $91 to $170.

02/2004