LauderBlog

I love talking to strangers. I think most of us are too reluctant to do this. Whether having coffee at a table two feet away from another person, or standing in line together at the grocery store or bank, whatever. Why not start a pleasant chat if the other person is open to the idea? I admit that I still don't do this as often as I'd like. But I'm getting better about it and this week my efforts paid a lovely dividend. I ended up conversing with a young couple visiting Fort Lauderdale from Germany. Here's what happened. I was indeed having a cup of coffee at a table two feet away. Outside at Starbucks on 17^th Street, I sat savoring my pumpkin spice latte along with the light breeze. The weather was clear, comfortable, thoroughly delightful.

The couple at the nearby table looked over at me and smiled once or twice and I smiled back. No real connection made yet. Just being pleasant. But when I saw her taking a picture of him at the table, I knew they were tourists. So I offered to snap a shot of them together, which they seemed happy to have me do.

I introduced myself and they introduced themselves back. Honestly, I didn't totally catch their names and there seemed no sensible reason to ask a second time. Their accented English was quite good, though, and we struck up a conversation. These folks had come from Cologne for 11 days in the Florida sun. No cruises on their itinerary, but they had rented a car so they could get around easily. I explained that I'm a writer - and that I write a blog on http://www.sunny.org/ about things to do and see in Fort Lauderdale. Of course, that really got us going. I offered some suggestions, especially urging them to take an Everglades airboat ride. I recommended Sawgrass Recreation Park on Highway 27, about a half hour from where we were sitting. And I mentioned a couple of local restaurants I enjoy as well. They were charming people, open and eager to explore this new part of the world. "It seems very nice here," she told me. "People seem much more relaxed. And of course the weather is much nicer than at home." We chatted about the sunshine here and the German beer there, about alligators here and about the autobahn there. I told them they were much safer with the alligators than with the autobahn drivers. After perhaps 20 minutes or so, I had to get back to my desk and so I bid them a fond auf Wiedersehen. But I still find myself thinking about our conversation fairly often, mostly because we had connected at some level despite cultural differences. You never know who you're going to meet in South Florida or how they may enrich your life unexpectedly in some way or other. Sometimes all you have to do is summon the courage to say hello.

The weekend weather was perfect in Fort Lauderdale. Perfect for gawking anyway. Well ok, it was perfect for many things, really just about anything you might have wanted to do outdoors. But gawking seemed to be the order of both days, as far as I could tell. I've never seen anything quite like this before. Of course, I'm talking about the presence of Fort Lauderdale's newest, biggest year-round resident. Royal Caribbean's Oasis of the Seas is the largest cruise ship on earth so when I say "biggest" I'm not kidding. This thing is 225,000 tons-o-fun. As it turns out, my previous blog about Oasis was right about one thing. They couldn't hide this ship if they wanted to. You can see Oasis of the Seas partially from Federal Highway just north of the airport. I even caught a glimpse of its smokestack as I pulled off I-595 this morning.

But this weekend's cruise ship frenzy happened much closer to Port Everglades. My exposure to the public's intense interest in Oasis began Saturday evening as I headed north on A1A. Drivers were driving and gawking, walkers were walking and gawking - all in the middle of the 17^th Street drawbridge. People actually parked their cars, got out and took pictures. On the bridge. This isn't a great idea, I might add, in case you think it's legal or something. It's not legal, trust me.

The irony was that these folks weren't even looking at the right ship. They were holding up traffic and turning their cameras on an entirely different, if also large, ship from another cruise line. Oasis wasn't in port at the time. But on Sunday I finally saw the real thing for myself. So did a lot of other people who, yes, continued to walk over the bridge in a near constant parade and continued to park on the bridge. Or to simply drive over the bridge at eight miles an hour. I actually clocked the gawking speed of the cars in front of me. Folks are dying for a gander at this ship. As for me, I found a good spot under the bridge to see what I could see. I was maybe a mile away at the time but it didn't matter. Even at that distance, I got some sense of how different Oasis of the Seas really is. More than anything, the hull shape and width stands out. Oasis looks flat on the bottom, which allowed the designers to build a very broad ship for all that extra space. They need it too. Oasis of the Seas carries in excess of 7,000 passengers and crew - more than the population of Broward County's Pembroke Park. Wow. Now that's a party at sea. This seems like a wonderfully enjoyable cruise ship and I hope some day to sail on her. For now, I'll just have to make do with eight-miles-per-hour gawking.

Lots of people already think Fort Lauderdale is a kind of oasis. A place to refresh, replenish, renew - a watering hole where they can escape the parched business of our everyday world. Even for locals like me, South Florida offers many chances to get away from daily worries for a while. There's nothing like a walk along the beach or a sunrise meditation to clear the head. But this popular R&R destination is about to welcome a different oasis of its own. On Friday, Royal Caribbean International will sail its newest ship into Fort Lauderdale's Port Everglades. Called Oasis of the Seas, this behemoth is now officially the world's largest cruise ship. Wow, and I thought Voyager of the Seas was massive when I sailed on her.

But Voyager holds around 3,000 passengers. That seems pretty darned huge, right? I got lost more than once when onboard. Well, Oasis carries - get this - 5,400 people. Plus crew. The new ship has 16 decks and 2,700 staterooms. Personally, I think they misnamed this baby. Oasis, nothing. This sounds to me more like it should be Island of the Seas.

Of course, a floating island requires a dock large enough for that island to tie up. So Port Everglades built something to order. As in the world's largest single cruise ship terminal, which includes a 3,000-square-foot artwork. I would love to see both this terminal and this ship up close. Oasis of the Seas provides something Royal Caribbean calls a "neighborhood concept." That involves seven distinct themed areas, each with a different look and feel to it. There is, for instance, an area the cruise line has named "Boardwalk," as well as "Central Park" and "Entertainment Place" and "Youth Zone." Etc. Royal Caribbean also says that Oasis carries the first park at sea, an aquatic amphitheater, a handmade carousel. And a zip line that whips over an open-air atrium from nine-decks above. Cool, eh? I did the rock climbing wall on Voyager of the Seas and loved the experience. What a blast. An onboard zip line seems like something I also really could get into. I think it's a wonderful compliment that Royal Caribbean selected Fort Lauderdale as the home port for Oasis of the Seas. Among other things, this means I should be able to see the ship often as I drive over the 17^th Street drawbridge. I'm not exactly sure where the new terminal is within Port Everglades. But I figure they can't really hide something as giant as Oasis of the Seas, even if they wanted to. 

One of the great things about living in an interesting place is that it attracts interesting people. That's sure true of South Florida. Tourists and residents, people who come for work, people who come to play. Last weekend, I was fortunate to meet two more of these folks. J.J. Kelley and Josh Thomas were visiting town to present their documentary at the Fort Lauderdale International Film Festival. Called "Paddle to Seattle: Journey through the Inside Passage," the film was a genuine hit during its Saturday showing at Cinema Paradiso, where it won the Independent Spirit Award. I loved it - the most refreshing new documentary I've seen in years, really. (You can find out more about this movie at www.paddletoseattle.com, by the way.) I thoroughly enjoyed the adventure angle of their three-month paddle from Alaska to Seattle in homemade kayaks. But to me, the personality of the paddlers made this flick a charmer. These are two very funny dudes.

Like I said, SoFla attracts interesting people. It's terrific to host up-and-coming directors such as J.J. and Josh during the Fort Lauderdale International Film Festival, which also attracts some very well-known directors and actors. "Paddle to Seattle" is one of more than 200 movies being shown at this year's filmfest through Wednesday night.

Of course, many other events draw many other interesting people to Greater Fort Lauderdale throughout the year. The just-finished boat show, for one. Then in a few weeks, the Winterfest Boat Parade floats down the New River and up the Intracoastal again. Actually, boaters are one of the big reasons we get so many wonderful characters around these parts. I recall bumping into a small family that had just docked beside the 15^th Street Fisheries early one morning to freshen up from their journey - around the planet. In a very small sailboat. They were Australians, a mom and dad and two young kids as I remember, stopping in Fort Lauderdale as part of their grand sea voyage. See what I mean? Our bars and restaurants are full of wanderers who've wandered all the way to Fort Lauderdale, whether as their home port or one stop along the route. We get salty boat captains and glitzy film stars, local kite surfers and international race car drivers. Sometimes we even get a couple of young guys who put every dime they had into making a film they believe in. If that's not interesting, I don't know what is.

Directions are a big deal in South Florida. This is a reality that few people stop to think about, I suspect. Until they travel east far enough that the reality is in front of them. Yep, suddenly there's a big wide Atlantic Ocean staring you in the face. Or make a U-turn and keep going ... then see what happens. Boom. After about two hours of driving west, there you are again, sitting at the edge of another expanse of salt water. I mention all this only because I was thinking yesterday about how directions are important to life in the Greater Fort Lauderdale area. It's always nice to know if you're moving east or west, north or south, of course. Doesn't matter where you live. But it's different here somehow.

I remember when I first moved to South Florida 20 years ago from Vermont. For some reason, I was constantly turning the wrong direction - and I've talked to other transplants who went through the same problem at first. When I wanted to go north, I inevitably guessed wrong and turned south. Same thing with east and west at night, when I had no sun to guide me and no compass in my car. I'm still not totally sure why.

But as I said, you usually can't go too far here without finding out about your mistake. "Wow, how did I get back to the beach ... again?!!" This is why GPS or maps are good things for tourists. You can find your way around Greater Fort Lauderdale very easily, really, but GPS saves you from those wrong turns. It's not just driving that makes directions so important here, though. It's the weather too, the sun and the wind. They force us to consider which way we're facing. We build our homes so that big picture windows don't have southern exposures that allow Florida's intense sunshine indoors all day long. Smart homeowners also install windows on the east and west sides to bring in crosswinds that blow through the rooms in cooler months. A light breeze shimmering from the east off the sea at night is something we'll seek out in the summer. Later in the year, we'll look for those winds to shift out of the north to bring us our first fresh, brisk air of the winter season. In South Florida, the direction of wind and sun matter more than in other places I've lived. I guess that's because we're closer to them here, in a sense. The hot sunlight and the cooling breezes and the ocean connect us with nature throughout our day. And maybe in our Facebooked, Twitterized world, that's not such a bad thing.

I ate the most delicious dinner the other night. Asian, at a bargain price. Best of all, someone else was buying so it was an extra-value value meal for sure. Really, though, I can highly recommend the Vietnamese cuisine at Basilic, a new Lauderdale-by-the-Sea restaurant. It is delish. I've eaten Vietnamese food in Ho Chi Minh City so obviously I've been lucky enough to taste the real deal. As much as I enjoy all the Asian cuisines that I've tried, I must say that Vietnamese is my favorite. To me, the flavors are more delicate and complex than the others, perhaps because of the French influence. In any case, my experience with the food at Basilic brought back memories of eating in Vietnam.

Three of us last week decided to try this new spot for the first time. And we all had the same reaction - excellent food. We started by splitting Vietnamese filled crepes, which are stuffed with pork loin, shrimp and bean sprouts. One order was plenty for all of us as we carved up the large crepe into bite-sized pieces for our chopsticks. Price: $8. Pretty darned good for such a large appetizer.

I ordered lemongrass chicken for $12, Gwendolyn got the Vietnamese chicken salad, $9, and my friend Hal tried the "shaking beef" for $15. That's about as expensive as the entrees get at Basilic, by the way. (Oh, but I suppose I should describe a dish called "shaking beef," shouldn't I? Sounds bizarre but it's only marinated filet mignon cooked in a wok with red onion and bell peppers. Mmmm.) Anyhow, my chicken was superb - dark and white meat marinated with lemongrass and chilies then grilled and served with rice. Just writing that sentence makes me hungry. I was struck by how fresh the ingredients were too. For our appetizer, for instance, toppings of cilantro and mint on the sprig were placed in a small pile beside the crepe. You toss a piece of crepe into your own small mixing bowl, then you pick off exactly as much of the fresh herbs as you want, drop those leaves into the bowl and splash some fish oil into it all. Then you eat. That's how things were done at the restaurants I experienced in Ho Chi Minh City. A word of warning for anyone allergic to peanuts: the menu states plainly that they "use peanuts in preparing and serving our food." I happen to love peanuts. And the food at Basilic. It's located at 218 E. Commercial Boulevard, phone 954-771-5798. A wonderful addition to Greater Fort Lauderdale's dining scene, whether you've been to Ho Chi Minh City or not. 

The golden anniversary edition of the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show is now officially open. Yay! That means boat folks from all over the world are here. Everyone from megayacht sellers to kayak paddlers, from longtime boat captains to first-time boat buyers. The event runs through Monday and is spread over six locations. These include the Greater Fort Lauderdale/Broward County Convention Center at the southern end all the way north through the Las Olas Municipal Marina. The trick is getting from one place to another. So I thought a few tips from a local might be helpful right about now.

I have friends who simply walk a mile or so to the boat show and if you're staying anywhere nearby, this is a pretty good idea. Maybe you're in a hotel on Federal Highway near 17^th Street, for example. Most people would be tempted to drive from there, but I'd suggest just walking to the convention center instead. It's a pleasant stroll, really, and feels wonderful being free of a car.

For many of us, though, walking isn't an option. No problem. I think a fun way to arrive at the boat show is by water, so consider snagging a free riverboat at the Las Olas Riverfront - corner of SW 1^st Avenue and SW 2^nd Street. It will float you directly to the Bahia Mar Yachting Center at the very heart of the show. There's plenty of parking in the Riverfront area too, including two huge garages not far from the pickup point. You can also think about taking a free shuttle bus to the show from the War Memorial parking lot on Federal Highway and Sunrise Boulevard. Easy parking and the buses run frequently. No matter where you park, of course, you should plan on walking a lot. I mean, a lot. So wear comfortable shoes, ideally something that you can take off without much hassle. That's because they won't let you on board most boats with your shoes on. Otherwise just go, wander, relax and have fun. The peoplewatching alone offers good sport at the boat show. All kinds of people, young and old, wealthy and poor, serious boaters and wannabe boaters. Then there are ... all ... those ... boats. Wow. It's a spectacle for sure, the world's largest boat show. And now the show is in its 50^th year. Have fun. Oh yeah, and BOO! Happy Halloween too!

It's something everyone should have the chance to experience. Sunrise at the sea offers one of those special South Florida moments. I was reminded about this twice over the weekend - once when I made it to the Fort Lauderdale beach in time for a dramatic sunrise, and again when a friend from Seattle marveled at her own opportunity to see the sun appear over the Atlantic Ocean. (Our sunrises have even inspired their own Twitter page, with pics that you can check out at http://twitter.com/FtLauderdaleSun.) The friend was Gwendolyn's sister, Tracy, a college teacher who was in the area for an education conference. Tracy found time for an early morning swim and a very memorable sunrise on Saturday, later recalling for us that instant when the earliest rays broke over the horizon.

As for me, well, I woke up at 6:30 Saturday morning for some odd reason. This is not the norm I assure you, especially not on weekends. But I felt rested and wide awake, glanced outside and thought, "I should pop out of bed right now and head off to the beach for the sunrise." Smart decision.

I pulled into the huge South Beach parking lot on the Fort Lauderdale beach at about the same moment Tracy also must have been watching the sun come up. Only a sliver of intense light was visible, a rich yellow the shade of mango juice. I quickly got out of my car as the sun first rose among a grand cloudbank, then disappeared into it. This was when I finally paid the master parking meter, left the receipt inside my windshield and walked north a short ways. But I soon realized that this morning seemed too beautiful to keep walking any farther, distracted by other people. So I found my own private patch of sand and sat down facing the Atlantic. What a sky! Overhead and behind me, I saw gobs of blue poking out but much of the sky was draped in heavy layers of clouds. To me they resembled clothing that had been wadded and tossed aside in a heap, perhaps a collection of cotton shirts in gray and white, blue and black carelessly bunched one on top of each other to form a thick massive pile. The sun would return later in the day after a pleasant morning shower. But at this moment, it didn't matter to me. I had started my weekend oceanside, finding just enough sun at just the right time to make my day.

I live in a boating area, a place of canals and boatyards and yachts. For a resident of Greater Fort Lauderdale, of course, that statement may seem a trifle unnecessary. Don't we all? Well, yes, we all do, generally speaking. But what I mean is that I live in a neighborhood where I can easily walk to those canals and boatyards and yachts. And that's just what I did today to start off my morning. It was delightful. I strolled north from my condo through Dania Beach streets lined with mostly modest homes, some decorated with skeletons and witches and pumpkins for Halloween. Within 10 minutes, I was at the big boatyard.

I enjoy walking through there, a bustling little corner of Fort Lauderdale's boating world. I had the impression it was humming with some extra enthusiasm this day too, with only a week left before the 50^th annual Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show. The marina was awash with ... washing. Lots of workers were sponging and polishing up big boats and I felt a mist on my face from one of the hoses as I passed.

The wind seemed especially fresh on my skin, blowing persistently off the sea and carrying that delicious salt scent with it. I wandered down the dock past vessels that had come from the Cayman Islands and Delaware and wherever else. There's a small picnic bench beside the dock and so I sat down, just smelling the air and watching those workers with their mops and buckets. The breeze now was quickly blowing in some thick clouds, a mottled gray and white mass progressively hiding the clear skies above them. I closed my eyes for a moment and simply let that refreshing wind splash over me. And I thought about how appropriate it all seemed just then, as if that wind also was carrying a new season to South Florida. Which, in a way, it was. Because with it, the boat show was blowing into town and so was a long stretch of cooler, drier weather and so were our most hyperactive tourist months, accompanied by the return of the snowbirds. I sat there a little longer before leaving, but I noticed that patches of blue already were breaking up the heavy cloudbank. Our shady day wouldn't last too much longer, apparently. But that fresh season was going to stay around for a while.

October is a big month in Fort Lauderdale. As a longtime resident, I find each month and each season has its own charms. Every month offering its own set of events and activities, every month creating its own ambience. To an outsider, April and October in South Florida might seem to have more in common than in many other parts of the country. Hey, it's summer here all the time, right? But actually April and October, as well as May and November and all the other months, are different and distinct. Still, this October is unusual for us, more special than most months in some ways. That's partly due to all the high-end things to enjoy just now - at bargain prices. But it also results from some major events taking place.

Where to start? Well, for one thing I noticed that the Fort Lauderdale International Film Festival begins on October 23 and runs through November 8. This is the 24^th edition of the flickfest and will feature a wide range of films along with some celebrity glitz and glam. Should be fun. Then, oh yeah, there's that other little event that comes to town about this time each year.

Not a big deal, mind you. Almost forgot. Uh-huh, right ... Seriously, the 50^th Annual Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show motors in from October 29 through November 2. This is the world's largest boat show, with everything from superyachts that have hot tubs and speedboats on their decks to tents that display the latest marine paraphernalia. It's a good time if you're into boats. Or would like to be. But there's a lot more going on than even the film festival and boat show. I said October is a big month and I'm not kidding. Like, for instance, the big Dine Out Lauderdale promotion that continues through November 12: There are 35 upscale restaurants serving wonderful $35 dinners. These places are pretty sure you'll like what you eat so much that you'll want to come back. In my experience with Dine Out, they're right about that. Then Spa Chic is still happening too - another bargain if you're looking for a top-quality spa treatment. Twelve Greater Fort Lauderdale spas are providing $99 treatments through the end of this month. Whew! Some big entertainers also will be arriving at the Hard Rock Live in Hollywood to help kick autumn into high gear, acts that include the Allman Brothers Band and Robin Williams in just the next couple of days. And if none of that appeals to you, I give up. I mean, you can ogle yachts, watch films, eat fine food, relax with a massage, dance to hot slide guitar licks or laugh with a comedy legend. Stay home if you want, of course - just don't tell your friends there's nothing to do.