Dania Beach is surprising. It looks like a quiet little spot on the map separating two larger, more exciting places. To the north, Fort Lauderdale. To the south, Hollywood. In my 18 years in South Florida, I’d probably stopped in Dania no more than several times until recently, including two or three visits to Dania Jai Alai. But now that I’ve moved to Dania Beach, I’ve learned something. First, I’ve learned that this community actually is – well, yes, a quiet little spot on the map between two larger, more exciting places. That’s true. But it has a special charm that I hadn’t recognized before. That’s the second thing I’ve discovered. And for me, that’s the surprise of this small seaside city.
If you’re visiting north or south of Dania Beach, you might want to swing by for an afternoon. Or an evening. It feels small town around here, with stores that sell fishing rods and bait. Federal Highway in Dania is loaded with antique shops. There are some good small restaurants and cafes tucked into corners, places like Jimmie’s or Grace Café or Mundi’s. Jai Alai really is something worth seeing, a unique and fast-paced sport. Then there’s my favorite Dania stop – King’s Head Pub. I ate there three times last week. The food is excellent and goes way beyond normal pub food. How about rare seared tuna with a fresh seaweed salad? I haven’t tried that yet. But I did share an excellent pate and sausage platter with a French friend Wednesday night. The next night, I ate with another friend who had just returned from London and we both ordered the wonderful shepherd’s pie. On Friday, I popped in alone on a whim and enjoyed a chicken pot pie for a late-night dinner.
But as good as the food is, the atmosphere and staff are what make King’s Head such a genuine find. It doesn’t just look like a real English pub. It IS a real English pub, owned by a British gentleman who clearly knows what he’s doing. The décor and the vibe are as authentic as you can get. King’s Head’s bartenders and waitresses are always friendly and attentive too. One of them, Vi, is behind the bar nearly every night – and she’s great. Warm, sexy, talkative with everyone. She always gives her customers terrific service, usually with a good dose of humor tossed in for free. Prices are very reasonable and the customers tend to be friendly too. If you enjoy pubs, this is one of the best in South Florida. King’s Head is located at 500 East Dania Beach Boulevard. The phone is 954-922-5722. Drop in as you pass through this interesting town and see what you think. And make sure you say hi to Vi!
In some ways, I’m not your typical guy. Here is one of those ways: I actually enjoy shopping. Hey, don’t get me wrong! I like sports as much as the next dude, though I’m drawn more to baseball and auto racing than football and basketball. I drink beer, ok? I still sometimes scratch and belch and punch my buddies on the arm and all that guy stuff. Though less than I used to, I have to admit. But yep, I like to shop – in my own way, in my own time. And I find summer is an especially great season for hitting the stores.
The reason is obvious. It’s hot outside. It’s cool inside. That’s true whether you’re in South Florida or New York. Or Chicago or L.A., where the highs today are forecast to be around 90 degrees. What do we expect anyway? It’s summer all over the country. I don’t mind the heat but it’s nice to let the sweat evaporate sometimes too. That’s where shopping enters the picture for me. I might be strolling down Las Olas and, hmmm wait – that painting looks interesting. Or that shirt looks great or whatever. So I wander inside and cool off and take a closer look. Or I’m driving in the sunshine with my convertible top down and suddenly I see, oh yeah, a bookstore! So I whip into the lot and go check out the latest books and CDs. I might buy something, I might not. (At the bookstore, it’s more likely “might” than “might not.”)
I also seem curiously drawn to home decorating type stores lately. Those funky spots with unusual wall hangings and artsy placemats and things made from bamboo and all that. I just moved into a larger place so there’s been space to fill. To my surprise, I find I’m dangerous in a Pier One or inside any of the many local shops of this kind. I should really try to avoid that little shopping center near Fort Lauderdale’s Gateway Theater, where these stores nearly ring the parking lot. I can’t seem to avoid spending money. Oh well. That’s why God invented credit cards, right? I also like malls in the summer. Maybe the Galleria or Sawgrass Mills or wherever. The food courts, the people watching, the variety of stores to drift in and out of. To me, shopping is a pleasant way to lower the summertime body temperature. And the heat seems a lot more tolerable when I go back outside to my car. At least I know I can’t spend any money while I’m driving.
I love the South Florida skies. With the ground as flat as the ocean, you have wide arcing sky vistas here, great domes of shifting colors and shades and shapes that encase you below. Look up sometime and just observe for a while. Especially this time of year, when our sunshine often is interrupted for an hour or two by thunderstorms. I’ve always felt that those brief summertime eruptions of light and fury are something to savor. They add drama and intensity to our tropical lifestyle. To me, they’re one of South Florida’s great natural spectacles.
Typically, the daytime sky begins with the faintest wisps of orange and yellow rising into a pale blue dawn. With the full sunrise, the paleness gives way to a deeper blue and a hot, insistent, hazy summer sun. Sometimes the skyview stays this way all day, untouched by clouds. But clouds come and go more frequently here during the warm weather and they may begin to gather along the horizon by late morning. This is the time to start watching, as tall towers of white and blue-gray sweep above the sea. Later, in the afternoon usually, the storms may come for a while. If you’re lucky.
Look along the horizon now. You’ll see a mass of layers in every tone of gray, light to dark, rising and building into imposing cloudbanks. Then you’ll hear it. The first low grumble of thunder. If you haven’t before, you’ll want to take shelter now. Go inside some well-protected place. Find a room with a broad window, sit back from the glass a safe distance and watch the show. Because a real South Florida thunderstorm is something to see. It may start with a fierce crack of sound, like the opening chord of some great symphony. And then relentless volleys of rain follow beneath a swirling, deepening gray sky shredded by lightning. Wide bolts rip through the clouds, grand wicked streaks cutting through the skyline, all chased by the bang and echo of thunder. It is spectacular. And it is beautiful. And it never lasts long. Normally, the storm ends as it began, suddenly, and the sky clears to blue again and later fades to pale once more as the sun settles into the horizon. It will be cooler now, after the sun and after the storm, and a sultry South Florida evening is waiting for you.
I’m told that Homer’s classic tale, The Odyssey, mentions sausage. I can’t say I recall the precise passage, but I’m sure the National Hot Dog & Sausage Council wouldn’t lie. This same unbiased source of hot dog factoids says the original version was created in 1487 in Frankfurt, Germany. Where else? Unless it was really invented in Coburg, Germany in the 1600s by some butcher named Johann Georghehner. Why should you care? Why should anyone care? Because July is National Hot Dog Month, that’s why. As a lifelong hot dog lover, I admit that, now and then, I do indulge. So this being the big summer dog-munching month and all – well, it seems only right that I share with you my personal favorite hot dog joint.
It’s called Dogma. Clever, huh? Ok, technically it’s the Dogma Grill but I don’t think anyone calls it that. They offer natural beef franks, as well as turkey dogs and veggie dogs. Though if you’re going to eat a veggie dog I say, Why bother? Stick with tofu. Dogma is a serious hot dog place for people who are serious about their hot dogs. Even if it’s something you indulge in only now and then. Ahem.
You’ve got your classic dog, of course. Nothin’ but brown mustard, ketchup, relish and chopped onions. My own fave. But Dogma also has an “original” hot dog – spicy brown mustard and sauerkraut. There’s the Chicago version, with yellow mustard, neon relish, chopped onions, diced tomatoes, sport peppers, pickle and celery salt. Messy but good. And, well you get the idea by now. Dogma has 22 variations on this wondrous theme. From the Pomodoro, which includes bruschetta, to the Athens, which has kalamata olives. It’s paradise, hot dog lovers! Oh and yes, yes – if you absolutely must, they also have salads and wraps and burritos, etc. etc. But I say stick with the hot dogs. The fries and refreshing mint lemonade are winners too. You can celebrate National Hot Dog Month for yourself by checking out Dogma at 900 South Federal Highway in Fort Lauderdale, just a bit south of the tunnel on the east side. If you go, they’ll be proud of you in Frankfurt. Or Coburg.
In my last blog, I referred to all the deals and bargains available this time of year. It’s true – they’re everywhere. So it seems only fair to point out how to find some of these moneysavers if you’re planning a trip to the Fort Lauderdale area. Or if you’re local and want to enjoy the next couple of months for less money.
Right on this website, you can get some of the best bargains around. Just click on the “Two for One” icon on the home page. That will bring you to information about the “Summer of Discovery.” You’ll find deals on everything from entertainment to cruises to spas. So what kind of specials are these? Probably low-end stuff, right? Not at all. How about more than $50 off a treatment at the Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa? Or going to the amazing Butterfly World, two for the price of one? Or a two-for-one water tour of Fort Lauderdale on Carrie B Cruises, which was voted best sightseeing cruise in South Florida? You also can click on the radio icon on this website’s home page to hear an informative podcast all about the Summer of Discovery.
If you’re hungry, visit another website to learn about some excellent restaurant deals. At www.tasteofsummer.org, you can look over prix fixe menus at some wonderful spots all around this area. The Taste of Summer promotion runs through August 30, sponsored by the nonprofit group, Share Our Strength. A portion of the proceeds from these special meals goes to the organization, which is working to help end childhood hunger in South Florida. The list of participating restaurants includes several I’ve recommended in this blog, such as the Mai-Kai, Bravo, Taverna Opa and Thira. You’ll have nearly 30 fine restaurant choices in or near Fort Lauderdale. So you can do something good for the world and get a terrific meal at a bargain price all at once. Not a bad way to spend a tropical summer evening, if you ask me.
Some people get really spooked whenever another Friday the 13th rolls around. Not me. I like these days. If anything, they’ve usually turned out to be fairly lucky for me. Superstition cracks me up anyway. I’m always amused when a hotel elevator somehow skips from the 12th to the 14th floor. Does this really fool anyone? Or when an athlete doesn’t want the number 13. It worked out pretty well for a football player named Dan Marino, as I recall. Superstitions can make adults act like kids. Walking around ladders, tossing salt over their shoulder. But even many kids know better than this. (There’s a new posting on our kids blog about Friday the 13th, by the way. To read it, just click here on http://www.sunny.org/lauderkids/. )
So I’ve decided that this Friday the 13th is a good day to remember how lucky I am to live in South Florida. The sun is shining day after day, sometimes punctuated by an afternoon cloudburst, one of those dramatic thunder-and-lightning shows that are so common here in the summertime. But when the storm ends, the sun usually comes back out and the sky clears. And the evening soon takes on some sultry, sexy, tropical mood and all the possibilities of a nighttime in the Fort Lauderdale area – the chic but casual restaurants and bars, the gambling and the clubbing. Or maybe just strolling quietly along an oceanside walkway. I find South Florida a very sensuous, very romantic place all year long, but especially so in the summer months.
Summer also is one of the best times to settle into a waterside table for meals or drinks. The heavy humidity seems to dissipate with the breezes that waft off the sea or the Intracoastal or the canals. To me, the summer heat in South Florida is preferable to the worst summer heat in the north. Just this week, Chicago and other northern cities sweltered in temperatures much higher than anything we have here. I remember several days that exceeeded 100 degrees in Vermont. So I’m grateful for all the spots near my home where I can sit and sip a cool drink and feel the wind on my face in this hot season. Prices are cheaper, special bargains are common. This is a good place to be and I really do feel lucky. Even on a Friday the 13th in mid-July.
By this time, early Sunday evening, the rain had stopped and the sky was clearing. I drove with my convertible top down and parked my car. When I arrived, it was nearly twilight. I was meeting a friend for coffee at Stork’s on Las Olas. She was late and I waited inside, wondering if it was too humid to enjoy sitting outdoors. But Oksana is Russian and staying in the air conditioning wasn’t even a question – why waste nice warm weather when you have it? There’s not a lot of tropical heat in Moscow. So I bought our coffees and we found a pleasant table by the canal where we could talk.
We swatted a few mosquitoes at first. But they did not bother us as we sat there. As we chatted I began to relax, I felt myself sinking into the sensuous warmth of the twilight. There was the softest breeze drifting along the canal, brushing over our skin like a wind of whispers. People walked along Las Olas and sat down near us on the patio and drank and ate and left. We stayed.
Oksana is an exceptionally intelligent and beautiful woman, an attorney with an MBA in her own country. So despite her struggles with English and my non-existent Russian, our conversation sifted through politics and economics and immigration policy. We talked about her two young children and my writing career and the joys of a day at a Broward beach. I even tried to help her with English. We seemed to laugh often so I guess our discussion didn’t become overly serious. It seemed too lovely outside by then to become overly serious. The twilight was settling into night. The Stork’s white twinkle lights turned on, to a round of applause from folks sitting on the patio. And the evening moved by gently, langorous as the tropical air. Sometimes summer is the best time to savor South Florida. This was one of those times.
Encounter by Deadline, Mel Taylor
Mel Taylor, known here in Fort Lauderdale as a long-time TV reporter, has published Encounter by Deadline, a follow-up to Murder by Deadline, another Matt Bowen mystery. As in the first book, Matt’s work as a television reporter (hey, the first rule is write what you know) puts him in the middle of the mystery, this time murder and stolen diamonds. There is also a personal connection to the crime and ongoing angst with his girlfriend, Cat, who resents his dedication to the job and the mystery, which leads him to put their relationship second. All ends well, of course, but not before we are treated to more of Taylor’s good writing and sense of place. He has also kept his gift for dialogue, in my book the hardest part of fiction writing. Taylor not only has an eye for our locale, he has an ear for peoples’ every day speech.
Taylor never loses his writing skill, but there is a feeling that he is moving through the story word by word, rather than having a flow that carries you along from page to page. The book has very short chapters, which should help, but they end up creating a choppy feel, not a fast pace. They also create a lot of white space which makes what would be a thin volume somewhat fatter.
Thin or fat, Encounter by Deadline is an entertaining tale of crime and detection set well in tropical Fort Lauderdale. If you enjoyed Murder by Deadline you will enjoy Encounter. If you haven’t read it, by all means do so, although it isn’t necessary to read it first. We can look forward to more of Matt Bowen’s adventures in Fort Lauderdale.
Yes, here it is a few days later and I’m still screaming for more ice cream. I went through a long period of my life when I didn’t eat ice cream often. I was sure it would pack on the weight. Then I decided that maybe I was wrong. Maybe weight control was more complicated than that. So I started eating it again, almost daily in one form or another. Reasonable amounts but good quality stuff. And I found that I didn’t gain any weight at all. So now I figure, why deprive myself? Life really is too short to give up ice cream. That’s how I see it anyway. Which brings me back to some of my favorite local places to buy a great cone or sundae or whatever you like.
In the previous blog, I wrote about Kilwin’s and Razzleberry’s. Now we’re off to Krazy Kone and Dairy Belle. I was at Krazy Kone on the 4th of July and had a fabulous dish of chocolate mixed with Heavenly Hash. Mmmm! It was excellent! Rich, dark, creamy but not overwhelming. My girlfriend had her usual scoop of cherry and it was wonderful too – loaded with chunks of Washington State cherries. We also sampled some of their refreshing Italian ices, which come in an assortment of fruity flavors. Hey, why not? It was a holiday, after all. Krazy Kone rotates their selections daily, picking from among 100 flavors made by Working Cow Homemade Ice Cream on Florida’s west coast. Really good stuff! And very nice folks behind the counter. You can give this delicious ice cream a try at 411 South Federal Highway in Deerfield Beach. Krazy Kone’s phone is 954-427-7888.
Dairy Belle recently was voted best local ice cream by a poll of newspaper readers. For soft-serve ice cream anyway, it’s surely among the best around. And you have the added pleasure of supporting a nice family-owned business where many members of the family seem to get involved. Dairy Belle offers a very smooth and creamy variety of soft-serve in chocolate and vanilla. Or you can go wild and get the two flavors swirled. Of course, they have lots of toppings too, including sprinkles and nuts and all the usual sundae fixings. I often head there for the malted milk shakes, which are terrific. Dairy Belle also has a large picnic table area, nicely shaded, to sit and eat all those chilled calories. Located at 118 North Federal Highway in Dania Beach, Dairy Belle’s phone is 954- 920-3330. Go there, or one of these other fine ice cream shops, and enjoy! Remember, ice cream is really just good wholesome food, right? Who says you can’t eat what you like?
We all do, don’t we? Scream for ice cream, just like the kids’ rhyme says. So at great personal sacrifice, I’m sampling ice cream for this week’s blogs. What better way to celebrate a major summer holiday than by savoring a dish of fudge brownie combined with mint chocolate chip? At least, that was my excuse Sunday at Kilwin’s of Las Olas. It’s one of the four small shops I’ll talk about during the July 4th period. As much as I love Ben & Jerry’s, they’re not invited to this ice cream social. Instead, we’ll focus on one-of-a-kind family-owned places. Or with Kilwin’s, a chain with a handful of locations.
I couldn’t do this little personal survey without Kilwin’s. To know it’s the real deal, you only need to walk into the small store and sniff. You’ll smell the fresh confections, including handmade caramel apples and fudge. But I go there for ice cream, as most customers seem to do. Started 60 years ago in northern Michigan, Kilwin’s serves some of the best ice cream anywhere, in my humble (but admittedly rather experienced) judgment. Kilwin’s is rich but not too rich. Creamy but with forceful flavors. Portions are generous and the staff is friendly. I’ve already mentioned my own favorite flavor combination. I’ve also tasted many other Kilwin’s flavors over the years. They’re all excellent. You can buy yourself a nice Kilwin’s-filled waffle cone at 809 East Las Olas in downtown Fort Lauderdale. The phone is 954-523-8338.
Razzleberry’s in Pompano Beach has been at the same location for 32 years. I wish I’d known. I discovered Razzleberry’s recently and was very impressed. This special store makes its own ice cream on their premises using higher quality cream than many brands. Because they make it themselves, they’ll whip up batches of flavors requested by customers. But I’m told the most popular flavor is their namesake, razzleberry – which has both black and red raspberries. Yum! I tried their chocolate. That’s always my benchmark in ice cream. I figure if a shop can’t do their chocolate right, what can they do? Razzleberry’s does chocolate right. The staff was great too. Joking and teasing, eagerly giving samples. I’m going back again soon to have more of this great homemade ice cream. You can try it at 3412 East Atlantic Boulevard, Pompano Beach. Their phone is 954-943-6944. Later this week, I’ll head off to two other top ice cream shops and give you my thoughts. Like they say, it’s a tough job, right? At least I can honestly say that I enjoy my work.