It’s still August. Not for long but I’ve got a couple more days. And so I’m still using the swimming pool at my condo. Just last night, after a long day of writing, I took some good strong laps. For exercise, to unwind, to stop thinking – even though I kept thinking while swimming. I learned an important lesson, however: don’t think when doing the backstroke. There I was flailing away, merrily speeding along backwards, thinking my heavy thoughts about life or whatever was on my mind. And bang! I whacked into the end of the pool with my head. It hurt, of course, but some folks might suggest that it can only help me.
In any case, one of my thoughts last night was about how thoroughly I’ve adapted to South Florida’s environment. Realistically, I will probably use the pool regularly for only another two months or so until next spring. Yes, well past August – I was only joking about that. But probably not much in December. Or January or February. We’ll have to see about March. For me, and for many locals, the water in those months is just a bit too … well, not cold exactly. Cool? Coolish?
Ok, I’ve really become wimpy about swimming in cooler water. Lots of my fellow South Floridians are the same. The tourists flock here in those same months, peeling off everything but their Speedos. Diving into the pool as if it were bathwater. Splashing in the ocean with carefree abandon. I remember the feeling, a time when cool pools seemed like warm pools. Living in Vermont, I felt that frigid water was my way of life. I dived into lakes that weren’t above 70 degrees. No problem. A pool or the sea in Florida would have felt warm at any time of year. Now, it seems the water has to be about body temp for me to go in comfortably. Yes, I exaggerate again here for effect. Haha. But seriously folks, you don’t have too many of us local swimmers to contend with during the popular winter months. The hotel pools, the condo pools, the ocean – they’re all yours. As for right now, you’ll have to excuse me. I have some swimming to do soon. But of course, you’re all welcome to join me in South Florida's warm water right now – no need to wait for the cool pools of winter.
One of the things I’ve always appreciated about South Florida is its openness. This is a community where people from all over the world, with widely varied backgrounds and interests, co-exist comfortably. The same is true of people with different sexual orientations. I’m not gay. But to me, greater Fort Lauderdale’s ready acceptance of gays and lesbians, and everyone else, is part of its charm.
I’ve lived in San Francisco. I’ve visited Key West many times. Both are known as gay-friendly places in the United States. I can honestly say that I find Fort Lauderdale just as open to diverse lifestyles as those cities. I often go for coffee to a spot called Stork’s, a lovely waterside café on Las Olas, whose customers include many gay and lesbian folks. On Sunday, a straight couple threw a kid’s birthday party there – six young children, two teens, a man and a woman. All sitting there, laughing and playing among the gay and straight singles. Everyone got along wonderfully. To me, it was another reminder about how easily we all mix here.
Wilton Manors has become a major hot spot for gays, with many shops, restaurants and clubs specifically catering to a gay clientele – as do lots of other businesses around Broward County. This is a live and let live kind of place. Most of us around here, including most of the politicians, treasure our culture of diversity.. It’s part of the fabric of greater Fort Lauderdale, just like the sunshine and the sea.
I know some of you will think I’m crazy. Maybe not for the first time either. Oh well. But I’m always honest in these blogs – everything I write about really happened. It’s the journalist in me. So believe me when I tell you that I felt the first refreshing puffs of autumn air in South Florida this week. Very early indicators of a break in the summer heat. Very, very early indicators. Well yes, very, very, very – you get the idea.
After living in greater Fort Lauderdale for the past 18 years now, I like to think I understand something about Florida’s climate. My former wife, still a good friend, is a Florida native and I learned a lot from her about the subtleties of the seasons down here. I’m a northern boy, originally from Michigan. So seasons to me were always very distinct. Summer meant heat and sunshine. Autumn meant chilly temperatures and golden leaves. It was that simple. But not here, not in South Florida. In this part of the world, the seasons do change – and not just in that obvious “rainy season/dry season” way either. But you have to look for the seasonal differences closely. Or sometimes, you just wait for them to stroke your face.
So there I was on Wednesday morning, sitting on my patio. Reading the newspaper and drinking coffee, minding my own business. And then it happened. I felt the lightest touch of fresh air on my skin. I looked up, breathed in deeply and realized something. The summer humidity somehow was different. The air didn’t feel as close, not quite so steamroom sweltering. It was still hot. It was still August in Florida. But the morning breeze was clearer and more invigorating. It was the first suggestion of the weather that will soon arrive, the first cool puffs of autumn. That afternoon, I noticed the outside temperature at 5:30 was only 84 degrees, according to my car’s gauge. And this morning, sitting on the same patio and doing the same things, I felt a similar wisp of approaching fall weather. Of course, I recognize we’ll have some weeks yet of pretty hot days. I don’t mind it at all. But it was nice to notice that change is literally in the wind. By the time fall really gets here, I’ll be ready to open my windows and turn off the AC for a while.
This past weekend, I enjoyed a couple of lazy afternoons in Hollywood. Both Friday and Saturday were intensely sunny. So wandering slowly through a park or lounging around a café seemed a perfect thing to do. On Friday, I’d been writing all day and needed to get away from the computer for a while. I drove down to Hollywood Boulevard, parked my car and headed over to the ArtsPark at Young Circle. Several other folks were hanging out as I sauntered past the musical baobab tree at the west entrance. Yes, music comes from this tree. I took my time, walking through the sunshine past the lovely fountain and making a circuit on the park’s sidewalk before returning to Hollywood Boulevard.
I went into a small sidewalk café and bought a Perrier. Then I sat outside to sip my sparkling water and peoplewatch. I felt lazy in that pleasant way, with the heat giving me all the excuse I needed to just do nothing more than relax for a while. I took a short walk around the street afterwards, glancing in some shops before heading home. Then on Saturday afternoon, I found myself on Hollywood Boulevard again. This time, a buddy and I headed downtown for lunch at a new Greek restaurant called Yamas. Very good – and worth a blog all its own sometime. Despite the heat, the outdoor tables were surprisingly crowded and my friend preferred to find some air conditioning anyway. So we grabbed an inside table and munched on some appetizers and a refreshing Greek salad. I washed it down with a Greek beer.
Then it was time for a lazy stroll down the sidewalk, much as I’d done the afternoon before. We drifted along, moving so slowly we barely broke a sweat, talking about politics or something. Somehow we found our way into Dolce Vita, a great gelato place on Hollywood Boulevard. And somehow we found just enough room in our stomachs for a small dish of that wonderful Italian ice cream. Now we ate outside, soaking up the heat and the languid atmosphere along the street. Less than an hour later, I dropped my friend off at his home, then headed to my condo where I resisted the urge to sleep as long as I could. I almost never take naps. Just isn’t my thing. But on Saturday afternoon, I eventually plopped on my couch and slept soundly for a full hour before getting together with another friend for the evening. I have to admit that the nap was delightful. Sometimes the summer heat makes a great tonic after a hectic week, forcing us to slow down a little as the temperature goes up. Sometimes doing nothing at all in South Florida can feel like doing just the right thing.
It wasn’t too many years ago when the best food at the Galleria Mall in Fort Lauderdale was available at one small German restaurant. I liked this place but it was often crowded. And, to my taste anyway, it seemed the only decent spot to eat in an otherwise upscale shopping center. That has definitely changed. Now the Galleria offers so many excellent choices that it’s hard to decide where to go. The Italian-themed food court alone has everything from great sandwiches to Chinese to gelato. The meals are fast, reasonably priced and tasty.
But there are even better options if you have the time and money. These include P.F. Chang’s, Seasons 52, Blue Martini. And the Capital Grille. I was lucky enough to enjoy a fabulous lunch at the Capital Grille just the other day, courtesy of a good friend. A very good friend – our pre-tip bill was more than $100 for two. But wow! What an amazing lunch it was.
He had made a reservation for noon and our table was waiting when we arrived. We were seated in a corner booth in one of the restaurant’s three small dining rooms. These are comfortable, relatively intimate areas with the masculine feel of fine steakhouses everywhere: rich, dark woods, ornate paintings, heavy fixtures. I loved the atmosphere. I loved the food even more. We both ordered the same entree. Sliced filet mignon with a side of mashed potatoes. My beef was cooked to perfection, more mouth-watering and tender than any steak I’ve had for some time. Before this main course, my buddy had ordered a tomato and mozzarella salad and I had a shrimp cocktail. Then, of course, after the meal we each had to go for dessert. Hey, he insisted. Who was I to be rude by refusing? So I finished things off with a flourless chocolate espresso cake that was rich and wonderful, along with a double macchiato coffee. Excellent food, excellent ambience, excellent conversation. Now that’s a lunch. I was so full that I barely ate anything else for a full 24 hours – no kidding. But it was worth it. And it was a reminder to me about just how far the Galleria has come in recent years. The German place may be gone now. But believe me, I’ll take a Capital Grille filet over a German bologna sandwich any day.
Art is all around us, if we look. We don’t have to go to a museum. Sometimes it’s sitting quietly beside the road. Sometimes, it is the road. I’m far from the first person to notice the majesty of highway cloverleafs. I’ve seen well-known paintings of them. But it’s not often that you find a highway interchange possessing a beauty that’s immediately recognizable from inside your car. I know of only one in South Florida and I’ve been driving all over this area for 18 years. It’s not Miami-Dade County’s insane Golden Glades Interchange, which is ugly and resembles a parking lot at rush hour. And it’s not even the nicely named Rainbow Interchange near Fort Lauderdale, which is painted pretty pastel yellow and pink but isn’t all that appealing in design.
To find the real interstate artwork, you have to motor out to far west Broward County. You can see it if you’re going to or from Weston, for instance, or to ride an airboat in the Everglades. The best view is from the east. Take I-595 from Fort Lauderdale and connect with I-75 north toward Naples. From a distance, this cloverleaf doesn’t look like much. To me, that’s part of its beauty. You have to drive through it to appreciate this unintended work of art.
As you get within maybe a half mile, the 595-75 interchange begins to look more impressive. The nearer you get, the more amazing it becomes. There is a great sweeping arc of highway bending to the south and another grand swirling curl to the north. The symmetry of those tall and lovely curves make the most dramatic statement here. But they are accented by broad straightline slashes of roadway, high and low, that add an artist’s touch to the cloverleaf, as if a painter had smeared them across an abstract canvas. As you drive through the interchange, the whole effect is like a sculpture garden, with the unusually graceful support pillars rising all around you. For a few seconds, you can recognize genuine beauty in a practical urban design. Then it’s gone, just another stretch of highway funneling cars around Florida. Just another public piece of art, carefully concealed in plain view all the time.
If you’ve spent much time around Fort Lauderdale, you’ve probably driven past this a thousand times. Maybe it caught your eye for a moment. Or perhaps you simply noticed something colorful out your side window. You might have even walked past it hurriedly to catch a bus without really paying attention. But it’s there, bigtime. So huge that it’s easy to miss it completely. I’m talking about the massive mural on Broward Boulevard along the south side of the road between SW 1 and SW 2 avenues.
It’s worth taking time to stop for a closer look. I think it’s an impressive piece – for the sheer size if nothing else. I haven’t seen too many detailed murals that stand something like 50 feet high and 100 feet wide. This painting also has vibrant colors and pretty images, with grand-scale grapefruits toward the top and giant oranges at the bottom. Painted by Daddona Studios of Pompano Beach, the artwork tells some of the story of greater Fort Lauderdale’s early days.
If you look closely, you’ll see a barefoot mailman. These were the hardy souls who trudged shoeless along the beach in the late 1800s, delivering the mail to settlers in this area. The mural includes a paddlewheel steamboat, the Wanderer, and the Stranahan house with its sign, “Stranahan & Co.” There’s also a charming street scene that recalls the beginnings of Dania Beach, which is Broward County’s oldest community. Across a dusty dirt road hangs a banner that reads, “Dixie Highway Tourists Welcome to Dania.” Horses and buggies tangle with the newfangled horseless carriages as the first motoring tourists make their way to the Sunshine State from the north. This region’s natural surroundings are celebrated in this piece too. Look for the alligator and the egret. The mural is just another treasure that’s hidden in plain view – something quite beautiful, I think, that we tend to ignore. Many other gems are tucked here and there around the community. Early next week, I’m going to conclude this little stroll among some of them with a look at the largest and most unexpected of them all – a graceful artwork that was never intended as art.
Sometimes it’s true, isn’t it? Things can be hidden right in plain sight. Remember that classic Edgar Allen Poe story, “The Purloined Letter,” about criminal evidence left in the open where everyone could see it – and no one noticed? It’s amazing how often we pass by remarkable things around us without seeing them. So my next couple of blogs will offer some observations about beautiful art in greater Fort Lauderdale that very few of us stop to appreciate. If we ever see it at all.
How about the sculpture of the Native American man on A1A? If you’ve visited Fort Lauderdale, or if you live in the area, I’ll bet you’ve gone by it many times without seeing it. He’s so hard to miss that he’s easy to miss, if you know what I mean. The sculpture rises about 25 feet into the air and sits less than a half-block south of A1A and SE 5 Street, in the busiest part of the Fort Lauderdale beach. This lovely piece is made of some kind of wood – I’m not sure what. It obviously has been on the west side of the coast road facing the Atlantic Ocean for a very long time. The large sculpture is weathered and cracked, but I find it a beautiful work that is sadly ignored by the hundreds who pass it daily.
To me, he looks like a Seminole brave, judging by the headdress topped with two tall feathers. With his eyes half closed, maybe he’s sleepy. Or maybe his furrowed brow means he’s troubled by what he sees. I like to think he’s waking up and squinting into a brilliant sunrise across the sea. The statue is sculpted in 360 degrees, with the back of his head having just as much detail as the front. And there’s a lot of detail to enjoy. His long hair flows down from below the headdress past his shoulders. The lines in his eyes, cheeks, nose and forehead are strong and expressive. The headdress and feathers look wonderfully authentic, to my eye anyway. It’s a lovely bit of craftsmanship and deserves to be appreciated by many more passersby. My hope is that some artist eventually may want to paint this Native American in vibrant colors that would make him stand out from his surroundings. In the meantime, though, I hope you’ll stop and take a look when you’re at the beach. He’s been waiting a long time for someone to notice.
So it seems my last blog may have raised a question: what exactly is jai-alai? Curious minds want to know. It’s probably only fair, then, that I explain a bit more about this sport and where to see it. For starters, how about the right way to pronounce the name? It’s in the Spanish manner, as if saying “high lie” in English. Second, let me correct my own spelling slightly. The word actually has a hyphen: jai-alai, not jai alai as I spelled it before. Oops, sorry.
Jai-alai has been played for hundreds of years in the Basque region of Spain and France, a high-speed version of handball. In the Basque language, the word means “merry festival.” It’s certainly a fast festival. Here’s basically how the game works: A player (or team of two in doubles) serves to the opposing player using a pelota, which is the goatskin-covered ball. This thing has been clocked at more than 185 miles an hour during play. To serve or return shots, the players swing a cesta, or narrow curved basket. They play on a long three-sided court called a fronton, with a chainlink fence protecting the open side that faces the public. The idea is to whip this pelota at the front wall with so much speed or spin that the other guy can’t catch and return it on only one bounce. So think of the game as being a lot like its handball predecessor – only played at warp speed. The winning player or team is the first to score seven points (nine points in Superfecta games).
Yes, this is a betting game. And greater Fort Lauderdale has one of the very few frontons left in Florida, where they once were fairly common. Dania Jai-Alai is on Dania Beach Boulevard, practically across the street from the King’s Head Pub I wrote about in the previous blog. In addition to its namesake sport, Dania Jai-Alai has poker and simulcasts of horse racing and harness racing. Slot machines are coming soon and so is a major expansion project, with a big hotel and gaming company planning to start construction later this year. For schedules or other info, call 954-920-1511. The fronton is only about one mile from the Fort Lauderdale airport, a quick taxi ride if you have a couple hours to burn before a flight. It’s a lot of fun and a genuine slice of Florida’s culture. And it sure beats listening to 15 announcements about flight delays.