So there I was on a sunny Sunday morning, driving alongside the Atlantic Ocean. And a thought occurred to me. “Wow,” I thought, “people really wear flip-flops a lot in South Florida.” Ok, this was not among my more original thoughts. I grant you that. But being devoted as I am to truth and science and empirical evidence, I decided to test my idea. Perhaps I was wrong about the flip-floppiness of our locals and visitors. Perhaps this was more perception than reality. And so I started to count the pairs of flip-flops I saw on those walking along A1A. And, for statistical comparison, I counted the non-flip-flop wearers too. While driving.
Ok, ok, you’re right. Another idea that maybe wasn’t among my very best. But I did learn something from this exercise. First, I learned that it is not a good idea to count feet while driving. Because counting feet takes a surprising amount of concentration, as it turns out. Concentration that might better be applied to something else when driving, such as not hitting folks carrying beach chairs across the street. Second, I learned that, yes, people really wear flip-flops a lot in South Florida. Wow.
By actual count, I managed to observe and mentally log 17 separate pairs of feet while motoring along at something like 30 mph on a busy weekend. And out of those 17 pairs of feet, you say, how many actually wore flip-flops? Exactly 13 out of 17. I was loathe to suspend my tabulations at a paltry 17 pairs of feet but just as I was about to count the 18th pair, another thought occurred to me: “This is nuts!” Thus, I deprived science of further data on this issue of public interest. But I think I may have saved a couple of beach chair carriers. I’m not sure. Anyway, now that I’ve proven my point about the high percentage of flip-flop wearers, you may very legitimately ask yourself a question about all this. You may ask, “So?” To which I would answer this: Any place where 13 out of every 17 people wear flip-flops has got to be a pretty fun place. Well, that’s what I think anyway. As I already have admitted, this was not my most profoundly insightful morning. But I thought it was interesting and I thought you might think so too. Oh, and what was I wearing on my own feet while probing this statistical mystery? Boots, of course. Heavy, pointy-toed brown leather boots under my jeans. I may be devoted to truth and science and empirical evidence, but I’m a nonconformist at heart.
Take one part racing, either horse racing of some kind or greyhound racing. Add one part casino gambling. And what do you get? Well, first you get a new word: racino. Racing + Casino = Racino. Cute, huh? But you also get what looks like a fun way to spend an afternoon or evening. I have to admit that I don’t know this for sure yet. I haven’t tried the racinos personally. But I think it’s time I stop reading about these places and find out what they’re like for myself. So over the next few weeks, I’m going to do my own little tour of Broward’s three big racinos. I have been to horse racing and greyhound racing tracks in South Florida and really enjoyed myself. But that was before they were transformed into “racinos.” The addition of gambling should make these race tracks … racier, I guess. I’m expecting an environment that’s a bit sexier than before, a little edgier, a tad more James Bond-y or something.
I’ll let you know. Not that I’m really a gambler, mind you. I’m not. I’d like to be but I’m not. A writer and non-profit group president, I have to watch my spending more carefully than gambling would allow. But I’ve always enjoyed playing poker and I understand the appeal for those who want to spend their entertainment dollars this way. It’s fun for me to watch them in action. I’ll be checking out the slots and poker tables, as a bystander, when I tour the racinos.
Mostly, though, I want to soak up some of the atmosphere. I’ll give you my honest feelings about whatever I experience, as I always try to do in these blogs anyway of course. It should be interesting. I’ll probably begin at Gulfstream Park Racing and Casino in Hallandale. This horse racing racino isn’t far from my home and it’s in the middle of a major expansion right now. Then I may head off next to Mardi Gras Racetrack and Gaming Center, also in Hallandale. This is the greyhound track, which continues in full swing even during the greyhound off-season that starts on July 1. Finally, I’ll make my way to The Isle Casino and Racing at Pompano Park, predictably located in Pompano Beach. The Isle offers harness racing and, like the others, Las Vegas-style slots along with poker and simulcast racing and whatever else. I’m looking forward to checking them all out in the coming weeks. I may not wear my tuxedo but I expect to order my martinis shaken, not stirred.
I was away for a few days, up in North Carolina to visit family. My mother flew in from Chicago to meet us all at my sister’s place in Raleigh. We had a great time, laughing and playing cards and visiting my nephew and my nieces and everyone else. Even the flights up and back were relatively pleasant. On my way north, the Southwest flight was maybe two-thirds empty. I had a row of three seats to myself. On the way south direct to Fort Lauderdale, though, the plane was full. Not a vacant seat. But I managed to snag an exit row with extra legroom. This often happens to me when I return to Fort Lauderdale from a trip – I’m on a packed plane. And this time, my flight didn’t even include everyone who wanted to go. While waiting to board, I overheard a businessman making a casual remark to somebody in my line: “I WISH I was going to Fort Lauderdale!” I think he was flying to Philadelphia out of a nearby gate. And I could tell from his tone he really meant what he said.
I couldn’t blame him. Some of us on my flight were heading home. Some were going to South Florida on business. Others appeared to be vacationers looking for fun on the beach. It was an upbeat crowd for the most part. I had the sense that many folks on this Monday departure felt fortunate to be flying to FLL.
So on my flight I made a special point to really observe our arrival carefully. I love looking out airplane windows anyway. Flying fascinates me. But now I wanted a fresh perspective of this destination that had filled a Monday morning jet to the max. As we came in over the Atlantic, the scene outside my window changed abruptly from a vast expanse of vivid blue sea to a thin strip of light brown where the beach runs up and down the coast. But the water didn’t go away. It just showed up in different forms for the rest of the flight. Over the dark Intracoastal, we next passed above swimming pools and canals and lakes, then to the Everglades with its pale green patches that seemed to float on the glistening water beneath. As the plane banked I noticed ponds with bubbling fountains, more lakes, more canals, more pools. If I’d never been here before, I might have felt that water was the feature that stood out most from that high vantage point. There’s water everywhere. And much of the time there’s sunshine too. The sun was brilliant and hot when we landed, as the flight attendant noted. “Welcome to sunny, sunny, sunny Fort Lauderdale!,” he enthused. I only wish the Philly-bound businessman could have been on board to enjoy our arrival as much as I did.
I’ve always loved the water. As long as I can remember, I’ve wanted to be near the water, or on the water. Or in the water. During my childhood up north, I always thought it a great treat when my parents had friends with a boat. Better yet, friends with a pool. I recall spending hours, literally hours, as a young teen swimming back and forth alone in some large northern backyard pool while the adults were playing cards or something. Now I live at a condo with its own pool. I can go whenever I like. But as I wrote in a blog last fall, I’ve become a lot more selective about swimming as I have acclimated to these South Florida temperatures. Most of the locals I know feel the same. Meaning, we don’t go into a pool or the ocean unless the water temp is well above 80 degrees. Like, well well above. That’s the price you pay for living in paradise. It kind of makes you a wuss.
So from autumn until late spring, I don’t use that condo pool or the ocean or anything else for swimming. A nice walk on the beach, yes. A “cold” dip in the Atlantic, no. Well, I’m pleased to report that I’m back in the pool. Ta-dah! I have been swimming again for a few weeks now and it feels great. Like I said, I’ve always loved the water.
I just took a delightful swim the other night. I had been in meetings and writing and generally being very busy all day long. I finally settled down at home with a small cocktail and an appetizer to relax. Then suddenly, I felt inspired. I should head to the pool. I know – not the best thing after drinking. But I’d only had one. So I threw on my suit and toddled off. There was some rain earlier in the day but on this night the sky was clear and the air felt almost fresh somehow. I stepped into the water, which was warm but still cool enough that I could feel the change in temperature on my skin. For about half an hour or so, I swam laps and then floated around looking up at the sky. I could see a pale round moon against the blue. In the west, thick ribbons of clouds turned a brilliant orange. It was beautiful. And I was wonderfully alone, swimming around again just as I did when I was a kid. I didn’t stay in the pool as long this time as I used to back then. But the feelings for me were much the same.
On Sunday morning, I was driving south on A1A and having a thoroughly pleasant time. As I got to Fort Lauderdale, I kept looking over at the ocean scene. The waves drifted in softly on a light breeze before washing into the sand. The sea was a lovely deep green. The sun was shining. People were walking everywhere. Then I saw this one guy strolling alone down the sidewalk with his t-shirt draped casually over one shoulder. That’s when I realized something about the beach. The only proper attire there is whatever attire you feel like wearing. It’s one of the great things about Fort Lauderdale’s beach. In any 24 hour cycle, you can find nearly every variety of clothing at one time or another.
In the morning, the beach tends to get the exercise and meditation crowd. So there’s lots of latex and gym shorts, tank tops and t-shirts. Some very hard bodies. And some, uh, not quite so hard. Later in the morning, the swim-and-suntan set arrives. Along the sand, you’ll see everything from thongs to baggies. Across the street, folks going to breakfast or doing some morning shopping often wear the usual shorts, sun dresses, flip-flops.
That’s pretty much the norm throughout the afternoon, with some occasional exceptions. From time to time, there’s a businessman in a good suit leaving his hotel or a crowd of nicely dressed professionals looking for a spot on the beach to grab lunch. But later, during the evening, is when it gets most interesting. At least to my eye. Tourists and locals alike run the wardrobe gamut pretty much from Happy Hour straight through last call. You’ll see couples in sporty evening wear – the man in a summer jacket and dress slacks, the woman in a sexy cocktail dress and high heels. Or it might be a gay couple, both well-appointed and looking very spiffy. You can spot small packs of women dressed to impress. And packs of guys wearing what they think will impress right back. Speaking for myself, I’ve worn everything from a tuxedo to raggedy gym shorts on Fort Lauderdale’s beach. There isn’t much you won’t see eventually if you hang out there for a day or two. To me, that makes the beach fun. And it pretty much takes the pressure off everyone who goes there. Be yourself. Wear what you feel like wearing, whether the latest designer clothes or your most comfortable shorts and sandals. No one will judge you. On the Fort Lauderdale beach, visitors and locals alike just want to kick back and have a good time. Whatever we happen to have on.
As I tool around the Fort Lauderdale area each day, I often find myself scouting out good photo opportunities. Not that I’m walking around with my camera in hand. Hardly. But my photos have been used by travel publications over the years and I like to think I have a decent eye. So I amuse myself in town by looking through my imaginary lens for strong but unusual shots. When I come across something I feel is worth sharing, I write a blog about it. This is the fourth in that occasional series. Because I think Colee Hammock Park has some real potential for anyone who wants quality pics of Fort Lauderdale. I love this little park, which you reach
by taking Las Olas to SE 15th Avenue and heading south a couple blocks to the parking lot. If you’ve never been there before, you may be surprised at how small it is. But grab your camera and take a little walk.
I think you’ll quickly learn that Colee Hammock has other surprises. First, the park boasts some unusually old, large trees. I’m not sure what they are, quite honestly. They’re not banyan trees or strangler fig or anything like that. But they remind me of those stout tropical varieties. The real appeal of Colee Hammock, though, is at waterside. That’s why this park makes such a good photo op.
By this little bend in the New River, boats large and small motor very close to shore. The Jungle Queen comes steaming along, with its guides squawking into their mikes about all the sights. Then there are the oceangoing yachts and cigarette boats and sailboats and kayaks. All make their appearance fairly regularly beside this park. On the opposite shore sit multi-million dollar mansions, offering an impressive backdrop for catching just the right boat at just the right angle. And the whole scene is framed by rows of tall palm trees. It just screams South Florida. But these are shots you won’t likely find at the corner post card rack. I especially recommend going at twilight. The fading light gives a special warmth and texture to the view from the park. It’s lovely. Plus the park itself is a wonderful spot to just perch for a while. Put the camera down and breathe in the atmosphere. If you’re lucky, you may even hear the carillon from the mansion across the river, its bells ringing out Scott Joplin music and other tunes. With a camera, or even without one, Colee Hammock is among Fort Lauderdale’s underappreciated pleasures.
Most of us are travelers at heart who long for escape from the daily routine. In challenging economic times, however, we just have to become a little more creative. How about spending some time in nature, like taking a side road off a busy boulevard? The Greater Fort Lauderdale area offers some surprising moments of quiet this summer, some hidden gems.
Just a few minutes east of jam-packed I-95, the West Lake Park recreation area in Hollywood provides a change of pace with canoeing, kayaking, biking, and walking trails along 1,500 acres of tidal mangrove wetland canals. To see the world from a different point of view, a 25-passenger covered boat takes visitors on guided nature tours; the Anne Kolb Nature Center features educational and interactive exhibits; and a five-story tower offers a panoramic view of the ocean, the lake, the airport and other recreational areas for fishing, tennis, and racquetball. It’s one of the largest urban parks in Florida, rich in native vegetation and wildlife, including some threatened and endangered species.
Further east along the ocean in Hollywood, the 55-acre eco-friendly North Beach Park has a turtle hatchery that is part of the Endangered Sea Turtle Protection Program. The park also features a 60-foot observation tower, and a boardwalk edges along the barrier island mangroves.
Nearby, reminders of Broward County’s multicultural historical heritage blend with natural settings which retain vestiges of old Florida in its undeveloped state. John U. Lloyd Recreation Area is 244 acres of self-guided nature trails through a semi-tropical coastal hammock. The park is dotted by abundant bird-life, and you may even spot some manatees in the shallows of Whiskey Creek. This is also the site of what was once the segregated beach for African Americans in Broward and will soon become a historically-marked site. The Big Cypress Seminole Reservation offers airboat tours to see deer, water buffalo, bison, wild hogs, hawks, eagles and alligators, and the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Seminole Museum offers exhibits on the heritage of Florida’s Native American roots.
Uncovering these and other gems will be a lot easier this summer because restaurants, hotels, and attractions in the Greater Fort Lauderdale area are offering numerous in-state resident discounts. Packages are available for beachside resorts as well as superior small lodgings including charming seaside inns, some starting at less than $100 a night. Also, the Summer of Discovery program provides discounts to spas, dining experiences, and premium recreation and cultural attractions across Broward County through September.
So, we travelers at heart can pack our bags, stay at home, take a mini-vacation, and be a tourist in our own backyard.
-- Kitty Oliver
When I look around the community where I’ve lived now for nearly 19 years, I often feel lucky. Not many people make their home in an area that is a worldwide vacation destination. I do. So for the fourth summer in a row, my girlfriend and I have booked a hotel room just a short drive from our homes. On August 9, we’ll check into a lovely hotel for one week on the Fort Lauderdale beach. We can hardly wait. Little did we know three years ago that we were a bit ahead of the summer vacation curve. This year, with fuel prices rising insanely, many people in South Florida and elsewhere are planning stay-at-home holidays in the next few months. Enough of us that someone has coined a term for this vacation choice: “Staycation.” I bumped into the word yesterday in the newspaper travel section. That told me something.
Since this seems to be a genuine phenomenon in 2008, I felt it might be worthwhile to offer a few thoughts based on my experiences. Because it still costs money to vacation in your own backyard, after all. And I don’t know about you, but I need to keep my expenses under control. So does my girlfriend. But there are solutions that allow us to get away and not drop a fortune.
One thing we always do is set aside a couple of days during our “staycation” to return home and work. We head our separate ways in the morning, put in more or less a full day’s work, then regroup in our hotel room at the cocktail hour. Of course, the work day shoots by because we’re looking forward to the evening. But we still don’t feel as if we’re writing off an entire week’s worth of work. We also eat out often, but eat in sometimes. We may grab yogurt and coffee for our room a couple of mornings. And we do one or two inexpensive dinners like bringing in some pizza. It’s fun and it saves on the final bill for the week. But then we’ll splurge on a couple really nice dinners too. The same thing with cocktails. We pack some vodka and wine, along with various appetizers. What’s better than sitting on a balcony overlooking the sea, having your own private cocktail party? But again, we don’t do this every night. Last year, for example, we went twice to the new St. Regis hotel for drinks. Mixing it all up this way really does cut expenses but allows us to have just as much fun. If you’re lucky enough to live in this beautiful place, but haven’t tried the staycation thing, this is a great year to give it a go. I think you may be amazed how far away from home you can feel – even when you’ve only traveled a few miles.
Sometimes children see things more clearly than adults. We all know that. There’s less “knowledge” to get in the way of truth. Less preconception. Less misconception. Kids tend to just look with their own eyes and take in whatever is in front of them. So you may want to check out a new blog we’re starting on this website. For the second summer in a row, www.sunny.org will offer a blog for kids, about kids. But you can read it too. We’ll tell the weekly tales of a young fictional family that lives in Fort Lauderdale – and this year, they will be vacationing in and around Fort Lauderdale too. Hey, even imaginary people have to economize a bit at the moment. So they’re packing up everyone and staying home! Home to explore places like the amazing Flamingo Gardens. Or the relaxed Jungle Queen. They’ll check into a hotel on the Fort Lauderdale beach. And check out parasailing. It should be fun for any kids you know. Including you.
Last year’s blog was written by Isabella, a sophisticated 13-year-old girl with a passion for writing. This year, an 11-year-old boy named Spencer will take over the writing chores. If you followed their exploits last year, Spencer was the pain-in-the-neck little brother of Juliette, who is Isabella’s best friend. They’ll all make appearances in the ongoing saga.
As you might know by now, I have written a lot of children’s books over the years. So this is a fun assignment for me. Also my nonprofit group, The Humanity Project, is very involved in the Broward school system’s major new anti-bullying efforts – with my group’s innovative anti-bullying programs likely to go into the classrooms. The point is that I do a lot of work involving children and, oddly enough, seem to be able to think like a kid. Even kids think so. For our new kids blog, the writing has to be a tad more polished than a real boy of that age could offer, of course. Otherwise, even children wouldn’t want to read it. But I think you might get a charge out of Spencer’s take on the world of South Florida. Look for it every Friday from now through August at http://www.sunny.org/lauderkids/. Something a little fresh and cool to help you enjoy greater Fort Lauderdale’s sultry tropical summer.
One wonderful thing about South Florida summer is the breeze. Not that there’s always a breeze, of course. But often the ocean winds come in steadily toward shore, cooling and soothing your skin against the powerful heat. That’s how people lived in Florida before air conditioning. They built their houses under shade trees and beside the shoreline. To this day, some folks lucky enough to own homes near the sea rarely if ever use a.c., instead throwing open their windows and welcoming those Atlantic drafts. Water just naturally seems a conduit for wind down here. I frequently experience a pleasant breeze when sitting along the Intracoastal Waterway or even some canals. Well, this summer I’m going to feel all that breeziness a little more than I ever have. Because I shaved this weekend – that is, I shaved off my beard and moustache. For the first time in my adult life. So for me, South Florida just got a tad cooler.
I probably should explain why this is a big deal from my perspective. I mean, lots of guys grow facial hair and shave it off on a fairly regular basis. It seems every time I see another picture of George Clooney he’s got a new crop of beard or has just whisked his whiskers away. But not me. I’ve worn a moustache since I was 19-years-old. I’ve had a beard since I was 30. It’s been a while. So shaving this thing off was an event. Not that I exactly sold tickets, though I would have if I’d thought anyone wanted to come.
But you well might wonder at this point: Is South Florida a whole new experience for me now? Has this shave changed my life? Uh, no. Not yet anyway. I was hoping someone might mistake me for George Clooney but so far no autograph seekers have surrounded me on the street. Naturally, it’s not exactly the same as before. I did notice small drops of sweat on my upper lip for the first time that I can recall. And I do need to put a little extra sunscreen on these rather white patches of skin. Driving home this morning on A1A in my convertible, top down, I also noticed an unfamiliar gusty sensation where my beard and moustache used to be. It’s a nice change, I guess. Though in all honesty, now that I’ve felt the summer heat with and without facial hair, I’m not sure it makes a whole lot of difference. Bewhiskered guys don’t exactly suffer under an extra layer of insulation. Either way, you can enjoy our water-borne breezes during the warm weather months. But if you really think you’ll look more like George Clooney without the beard, by all means shave it off. Maybe it’ll work for you better than it has for me.