LauderBlog

You've heard of oceanside dining. Well, last night seemed more like moonside dining. I was lucky enough to attend a VIP opening for Via Luna, the new Italian restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Fort Lauderdale. The name translates, roughly, to "by way of the moon," as near as my nonexistent Italian can figure. That seemed especially appropriate on this evening. As the full moon glowed above the sea, the party offered its own kind of glow. The generous folks at the Ritz had entirely closed off their beautiful main bar, wine bar and restaurant for this event. Food stations were distributed throughout Via Luna, outdoors and inside both, with everything from grilled steak and Italian sausage to pasta with pomodoro sauce made to each diner's individual taste. I thought the food was excellent, salty in true Italian style but with complex flavors. Yum.

It was a lovely evening. Gwendolyn and I bumped into some wonderful old friends, all of us sampling the Moet champagne and Meiomi pinot noir along with mojitos and rum and cokes and anything else anyone wanted. And then we dived into the desserts. Handmade cannolis, tiramisu served in martini glasses, cheesecake cubes topped with fine chocolate. You get the idea. Yum again.

If you've not experienced Fort Lauderdale's Ritz-Carlton yet, you should. It's wonderfully located, with the sea plainly visible from Via Luna and the main bar through floor to ceiling glass walls. They each offer a deck area too for alfresco meals or cocktails beside the Atlantic. Both rooms have an elegant openness to them, spaces that feel relaxing and inviting. The adjoining wine bar is intimate. As one of my friends commented while sipping something there, "I could stay in this wine bar all night!" I understood how he felt. Actually I have stayed there all night - not in the wine bar, of course, though I was tempted. But in the hotel, which is as superb as every Ritz I've enjoyed around the world. Each hotel in the chain gives its guests true luxury with excellent service, though each hotel also feels unique in some way. Fort Lauderdale's Ritz is all about the sea, with décor and art that suggest the beachside setting. But last night ... well, to me last night really was about the moon. At one point during the evening, Gwendolyn and I sat alone at an outdoor table, a flamenco guitarist playing beside us. I glanced over at the ocean and the scene seemed as though it had been cut from some Fort Lauderdale postcard. That moon hovered over the dark water, veiled by a curtain of thin haze and all of it accented by purple clouds painted thinly in strips across the lunar sheen. It was perfect. Via Luna, indeed.

Open the door. Now take a sniff of the outside air here in South Florida. Chances are  good that you'll pick up a distinct, very pleasant aroma. The sea. The Atlantic Ocean perfumes the breezes all around Greater Fort Lauderdale, often miles inland. Sometimes I wonder how many people stop to notice this, whether residents or tourists. The salt air is such a pervasive presence in our area of the world that you easily can take it for granted. But not me. I notice it all the time - and when I do, I often inhale deeply to drink it in. To my mind, this saltiness is among the many charms of life along the Florida coast. It's a frequent reminder about where we are, our nearness to one of the planet's great wonders.

Ah, the sea. It is a big reason why Fort Lauderdale attracts so many visitors from all around the world each year, of course. Our warm ocean currents, our clean, lovely beaches and the sunshine that washes over the sand during all 12 months. The Atlantic made Fort Lauderdale what it is.

But after living here for more than two decades now, I'm still amazed by our distinctly perfumed air. You need not be near the seashore to enjoy the sea. Just take a good breath. Smell that? There's a special tang to the ocean breeze, almost a gentle bite to it, invigorating but soothing. It's nature's own aromatherapy. These days, I live in Dania Beach within one mile of the coast. I sit on my patio and, more often than not, can smell the ocean as strongly as if I were camped on the beach. Immediately before moving to Dania, I rented a Fort Lauderdale house that was maybe two miles or so from the ocean as the crow flies. There too I could sniff the salt. But even that far inland isn't the limit of our salt-scented air. During my marriage, we owned a home in Oakland Park - east side, yes, but still a few miles from the shoreline. When the wind was right, my nose could very clearly detect the same aroma there. Oddly enough, I don't regard myself as the owner of the finest sniffer around either. Hey, my nose does ok, I guess, but I'm just saying that I know people whose sense of smell seems much more sensitive than mine. I'm not smelling the ocean because I possess some kind of supernose. I'm smelling it because the ocean is there, in our wind. It's a beautiful thing, really. Sometimes when I feel stressed, I just close my eyes and inhale and allow that fresh, clean scent to carry me away for a moment. And for that instant, my worries are gone. Oh yes, I'm at the sea.

You can experience something in Fort Lauderdale that you'll find hardly anywhere else in the world. It's not the kind of thing most tourists are likely to notice. But it's worth noticing. So let me give you the inside scoop about our cruise crews. On weekends, and some weekdays too, you only need to visit the area near Port Everglades. Go in the daytime, any hour from late morning to maybe mid-afternoon. You'll see a mini version of the United Nations walking around, usually younger, attractive folks for the most part. These are the people who work on the cruise ships that routinely dock in Fort Lauderdale. If you pay attention to the crew members' presence, you'll soon notice the extra vitality and enthusiasm they bring to our community.

These crew members work in the wide variety of jobs that keep today's massive cruise ships operating efficiently. They serve meals, stand behind shop counters and bars, clean cabins, fix engines and do pretty much everything else. They are pursers and entertainment directors, engineers and hotel managers.

And they are in Fort Lauderdale on a brief leave. Believe me, shore leaves are coveted by these crew members - and handed out selectively. On many ships, most crew members must stay aboard when in port. But the lucky few are allowed to go ashore and do whatever they want to do. So here's the deal: Just head to Fort Lauderdale's SE 17^th Street on some weekend. Sundays seem to be especially good for this. Maybe grab a coffee at the Starbucks there, sitting at an outside table to observe the comings and goings. Port Everglades is poised to become the largest cruise port on earth in the next couple years. We already have as many as nine ships in port at the same time. You'll see lots of eager youthful faces from countries all around the globe, from the Philippines and Thailand, from Great Britain and Germany, from Egypt and Israel. And dozens of other nations. They're often on their cellphones or computers, calling family members, surfing the Internet or catching up on email. And they're usually buying things like clothes and toiletries and favorite foods and anything else they've needed. I think it's fun to watch them making the most of their precious free time in South Florida. These folks work very, very hard all week long, far from friends and family. It can be a difficult, lonely existence. When crew members come to our town, they just want to find good bargains, have some fun and enjoy our sunshine for a while. The rest of us get to enjoy them while they're busy enjoying Fort Lauderdale - just before they hurry back to the demanding duties of life at sea.

Yep, surf's up, dude. Grab your board and paddle on out. If you haven't spent much time around Greater Fort Lauderdale's blue wave beaches, this may surprise you. I've lived in this area for many years and it still surprises me in some weird way. Surfers? Really? Yeah, really. There are a lot of surfers in South Florida. And they catch plenty of waves over the course of 12 months. Mind you, I'm not suggesting we're exactly Oahu's North Shore. It's a good thing too. Have you ever been there? I have. As far as I could tell, there's not much around the North Shore except, well, nice surfing. Here in South Florida we've got lux hotels and top restaurants, great night clubs and casinos and attractions. And some surfable waves.

You can even rent a surfboard in Fort Lauderdale and give it a try. I guess that tells you something right there, huh? We wouldn't have surfboard rentals at all if there wasn't some fun surfing off our beaches. One place to rent a board is BC Surf and Sport on Federal Highway, among other options. A Google search will turn up addresses and phone numbers for you.

Florida's eastern coastline can be a very pleasant place to ride some surf one way or another. The first time I tried body surfing, back when I was in high school, I plunged into the waves in Florida. That's a very easy form of surfing, of course, basically turning your whole body into a board. Even fairly modest waves can work for a little bodysurfing fun. For true surfing, though, you need something more than fairly modest waves. And that's not an everyday thing in South Florida for sure. Our ocean tends toward gentle, rolling breakers - until we get a good offshore breeze going for a while. That's when the surfers start texting each other. And waxing up their boards. You'll see them on windier days all up and down our beaches, any place where they can catch a decent wave without too many swimmers to get in the way. I enjoy watching them rolling along in front of the foam for as far as they can stretch it. Some of these folks are pretty good, very experienced surfers to judge from their technique. Like I said, you might be surprised. Our highly swimmable seashore is a great place for beach balls and Frisbees and inflatable rafts, absolutely. But sometimes a surfboard makes for a nice day at the beach around here too.

Beach + women + ball = fun. Hey, it's a simple equation. And believe me, it's the truth. Beach volleyball is a blast anytime. You see lots of it being played by us amateurs all up and down the sand around Greater Fort Lauderdale. But professional women's beach volleyball - that's something else. When this fast game is taken over by athletic women in small swimsuits, well, yes that's an equation for some fun in my book. Call me crazy. It's happening this weekend in Fort Lauderdale, where the AVP will host its next big tournament. It has a long name, this event: AVP Nivea Tour Gatorade Fort Lauderdale Open. Good thing they didn't have six more major sponsors. But seriously, these athletes are the folks you see on ESPN. And in the Olympics. They're the top female beach volleyball players in the world.

Remember Misty May-Treanor? You should. She's won two Olympic gold medals for beach volleyball. She'll be in Fort Lauderdale this weekend, playing in her usual aggressive style. May-Treanor has collected more AVP Tour titles than any woman in the organization's history.

It's pretty amazing to watch her and the other competitors dive around the sand. I know this because I attended an AVP competition here in Fort Lauderdale a few years ago. I had a terrific time. Even wrote a blog about it way back then, a little ditty called "Volley of the Dolls." Heh-heh. I still remember that headline. And sure, that's part of the appeal of this sport -  the babe factor. And they know it. They're not dressed in bikinis by accident. Whether you're male or female, straight or gay, you may find it fairly enjoyable to see trim women playing sports in very little clothing. That's just the truth. But when you watch these players, you pretty quickly get beyond their skimpy uniforms. You start to appreciate the training and the athletic talent that landed them on this beach. Remember, there are only two women on each side of the net. That's a lot of sand to cover, trust me. The tournament begins on Friday at 8 a.m. and ends on Sunday at around 5:30 p.m. It takes place at Fort Lauderdale Beach Park, at the south end of the Fort Lauderdale beach. General admission tickets start at $15 if you buy them online. Just go to http://www.avp.com/. Bring lots of sunscreen and wear a hat. You'll be in the sunshine for hours. And dress about any way you like. When you go to a sporting event where the athletes wear bikinis, the crowd can get away with pretty much anything.

I'm always impressed by the great concerts we get around this community. Whether rap or pop, jazz or classical. Or good ol' rock and roll. The top artists come through here regularly, and sometimes a legend or two even makes an appearance. Several days ago, Paul McCartney played a nearly three-hour set for a jubilant South Florida audience. Paul's former bandmate, Ringo Starr, will be coming by in July with his All Starr Band to Hard Rock Live in Hollywood. If you're a Beatles fan, you'll want to see that one. I've caught shows by both Paul and Ringo when they were in town during years past - and I still think about those performances often. It's funny how a great concert can do that. It will stick in your memory and enrich your life in ways you might not have expected when you bought the tickets.

I was thinking over the weekend about how much I've gained from great concert experiences. This reflection was partly the result of an amazing classical performance I attended on Sunday. And then with the two surviving Beatles turning up in my backyard within just a few months of each other ... well, it made me recall all the money I've spent on live music. And how it's been worth every single dime.

I wouldn't trade my Paul or Ringo shows for anything. I don't even remember how much I paid for tickets to their concerts. And I don't care. I do remember very clearly listening to Ringo as he sang "Yellow Submarine." Yep, I sure remember that. And "With A Little Help From My Friends" and a lot of other hits that were an important part of my youth. Just as I have crystalline memories of Paul belting out "Hey Jude" among a string of his extraordinary songs. I'm a lifelong Beatles fanatic, a genuine admirer of John, Paul, George and Ringo as artists and as people. That's part of the reason I wanted to let you know about Ringo, just in case you're a huge fan too. But even if not, it doesn't matter. Bon Jovi is playing Fort Lauderdale only several days from now. So is John Fogerty and then Van Morrison will come through in May. If you look around a bit, you'll find jazz concerts and classical concerts, Indian music and Caribbean music and lots more. Heck, just take a walk along the Fort Lauderdale beach north of Las Olas any Saturday night to hear a variety of live music, for free. The concerts, the music, they're out there if you want to listen. I'm just reminding you about that, I guess - and why it's probably worth the effort and money to go.

A little bit of Greece has arrived on Las Olas. Making some Greek waves, if you will. (Fort Lauderdale's main shopping street, Las Olas, is Spanish for "the waves," of course.) After experiencing the new spot for myself this week, I can understand why people are talking. Trata Greek Taverna is a wonderful addition to the roster of ethnic restaurants along Las Olas, which includes Asian and Italian among the options. I went to Trata for lunch with a good friend and colleague, a buddy with whom I've actually traveled to Greece on business. He's a seasoned world traveler with impeccable taste and would offer a reliable second opinion on Trata's food and service. Well, we agreed on a verdict after our relaxed meal. Excellent food, excellent service.  

This is a charming place, capturing some of the feeling of a real Greek taverna - though a decidedly upscale one. Most of the tavernas I've experienced in Greece tend toward the simple and functional. Trata has a more polished pizzazz, with a lovely bar that feels just right for a downtown Fort Lauderdale restaurant.

Our waiter was first-rate, attentive without being overbearing, friendly without being too familiar. Refills on our iced tea and Trata's delicious fresh bread came promptly, as did our check after we'd asked for it. The food was prepared with the kind of care you find on Santorini or Paros. Or Athens. My benchmark for good Greek food is the classic country salad and that's what I ordered for my lunch. No lettuce. Just peppers and cukes, tomatoes, Greek olives and feta, sprinkled with spices and doused in extra virgin olive oil. Mine was the real deal, with some tasty tomatoes despite the recent shortages. My friend ordered a chicken kebab, which came with a large mound of freshly made French fries. A sometimes finicky eater, he polished off every bite. The next time I go, I'm eager to try their saganaki, the flaming sheep's cheese that's another of my personal faves. The menu is extensive and moderately priced, especially for Las Olas. Trata has everything from red snapper to lamb chops and a choice of about 20 Greek wines, both white and red. Make a whole meal of appetizers if you want or pick from among the entrees. Trata Greek Taverna is at 1103 E. Las Olas, open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day - 954-712-8933. I suggest sitting at one of the outside tables, Greek style, where you can take in the Las Olas ambience. The view may be different than what you'd find in Athens, but the restaurant is very much the same.

Nature in South Florida seemed very busy this morning, from my perspective anyway. I watched an anhinga dive into a lake to fish for his breakfast, then hold wings to the wind to dry out his feathers. I noticed a pair of turtles mating - in the water. (I guess that's the preferred location if you're a turtle. This whole thing went on much longer than you might imagine and suggested rather amazing agility and persistence. Let's just say that I was impressed.) I heard a mockingbird warbling robustly in the perfect morning air. And I watched my hummingbird too. Well, I think of him as mine, in a sense. Until recently I'd never seen a hummingbird in the wild in Florida, though the bird books say they're around. Even a hummingbird feeder at my former house in Oakland Park didn't do the trick. Now, though, a pair of hummers has taken up directly beside my condo building.

They're lovely to watch, green-breasted and so tiny you might miss them if you weren't looking closely. I'm guessing the male is maybe two inches tall. They love the Hong Kong orchid tree outside my patio, darting from one purple blossom to another. For about the past three weeks, I've seen one or both of the hummingbirds nearly any time I sit on my patio during daylight hours.

Before all this action, I had been around hummingbirds in Florida, to be honest. Lots of them. You can be around them too if you drop by Butterfly World in Coconut Creek. It's a remarkable place, both for its butterflies and its birds. Butterfly World has this nation's largest free-flight aviary for hummingbirds and you'll get up close and personal with many varieties there. They flit right by your ears, so near that you often can hear their wings beating as they pass. Of course the butterflies are the main attraction, as you might expect. Thousands from all over the world floating everywhere as you walk, even landing on you if you'll stand still long enough. But when you go to Butterfly World, don't miss the hummingbirds. I find these creatures fascinating and I'm thrilled to have a pair in my backyard now. I really have no idea how long they'll hang around these parts or if they'll return to the same place next year. I'll let you know. For the moment, I'm simply enjoying their visit to my home. And I'm hoping they're in no hurry to leave.

As April begins, I want to express my personal gratitude to all those who visit Fort Lauderdale. Composers may write songs about April in Paris but, as far as I'm concerned, South Florida is the place to be during this month. So I want to reach out to you, the April tourist. Yes, I want to give you something ... well, very special. In my own fashion. All you need to do is let me know you're on your way. I shall meet you at the point of your arrival, whether at the airport or Port Everglades or maybe outside a hotel at the instant your car rolls into the driveway. I have imported a red silken carpet, handmade for this purpose by a team of artisans in New Delhi, and I will unfurl this to soften your first footsteps in our tourist paradise.

A carefully assembled team of 50 South Florida celebrities will shout a chorus of "huzzahs" while you stride down the silk carpet - which will be burned ceremonially after you sit inside your waiting white stretch limousine. Then we all will march next to the limo in perfect unison for a parade down Las Olas Boulevard in your honor.

Onstage at Huizenga Plaza in downtown Fort Lauderdale, you will receive the key to our city from Fort Lauderdale's mayor and be asked to make a speech about your most endearing personality traits. Every resident of Broward County will turn out for this important occasion. That night, a torchlight party will be thrown for you along the famous Fort Lauderdale beach. You will sit inside an emerald throne placed upon the sand, lightly fanned with palm fronds by four of South Florida's most beautiful socialites. A wild pig will be coal-roasted and sliced to your order by skilled swine-chefs flown in from the Solomon Islands for the occasion. Everyone in the massive crowd along the beachfront will be served mojitos in large silver cups that bear your name and the words, "Tourist of the Year!" Just then, fireworks will erupt outside each home and hotel on the ocean from Deerfield Beach to Hallandale Beach to celebrate your Greater Fort Lauderdale holiday. Welcome to Fort Lauderdale! Oh ... and just one more thing I must mention at this point: April Fool, of course. Haha. But you also should know something else, for real: I may not be able to arrange a welcome that's quite this lavish for you. Sorry. But I would if I could.