|
|
Tuesday, May 30, 2006
May 30: Wine-Lover Heaven
Wine goes well with sensuous South Florida. A refreshing, well-made chardonnay on a hot afternoon accents a seafood salad wonderfully. Or maybe it’s a slightly chilled cabernet to accompany a good steak grilled outdoors for dinner. The steamy climate and upscale feel here blend perfectly with the grape. So it is that South Florida is also a perfect place for a wine-lover’s heaven. And that brings us to Total Wine, paradise for oenophiles if ever there was one. This is like a department store for wine, beer and other spirits, Bloomies for drinkers. They have only three Florida locations and their newest, and only South Florida store, is in Fort Lauderdale. If you enjoy wine, it’s worth the trip. This really is not just another wine shop or liquor store. They call it a superstore and with good reason. This place is an experience. Total Wine has – get this – more than 8,000 quality wines, 2,000 spirits and 1,000 microbrew or imported beers. Their prices are always great. A German liebfraumilch wine I often pick up costs less than $4 and it’s very good. Light and fruity and just right for summer. In fact, Total Wine doesn’t run a lot of specials. Their concept is to keep prices as low as possible all the time. If you find something cheaper somewhere else, they’ll match the price.
I’ve been in there many times since the superstore opened a few months ago. I stopped by again on Sunday, this time for beer rather than wine. (I also snagged a couple of excellent cigars from their humidor.) A 12-pack of superior imported beer cost me less than $10. Usually a six-pack of the same beer costs around $8. That should put Total Wine’s advantages in some perspective.
And think about this: How many times have you been in a wine shop that offers you a free store map so you can find your way around? The map can direct you to their Greek wines, for example, or their long rows of cabernets. Beaujolais, white zinfandel, kosher, syrah and nearly everything else, it seems – they’re all here, waiting for you.
If you’re visiting greater Fort Lauderdale this summer, Total Wine makes an excellent stop to stock up on wine for your hotel room. If you live here, you really need to check out this store. It’s located in the Harbor Shops complex, on Cordova Road south of the 17th Street Causeway, just a few doors from Publix. They have a knowledgeable, helpful staff and offer weekend wine samplings.
What more can you ask for – other than someone to share all that fine wine with? Unfortunately, even Total Wine can’t help you with that part of your winetasting experience. But I can wish you the best of luck.
Friday, May 26, 2006
May 26: Wet Feet
When I arrived Wednesday morning, the sun had climbed just two-fingers high. It was very early for me to be at the beach, 6: 50 a.m., and the clouds were blue-white ruffles shading part of the sky. I looked out and held my hand parallel to the horizon along the sea-line ahead, trying to tell just how far the sun had risen by that hour. Yes, just two-fingers high.
This was an unusual day at the beach for me for a few reasons, including the hour. Normally I arrive for my morning exercise and meditation at about 8 or so. It doesn’t even matter which beach I was at and today I won’t tell you. Anywhere from Deerfield to Hallandale, from Pompano to Hollywood, or somewhere in between, maybe Fort Lauderdale or Lauderdale-by-the-Sea. They’re all beautiful. And when you’re walking along the edge of the water, as I did today, the exact Broward beach makes no difference. Each has golden sand and endless ocean to enjoy.
But what was really different for me was this : Believe it or not, today was the first day this year I’ve actually gotten my feet wet in the Atlantic. That may sound strange to out-of-towners but locals would understand. Relatively few South Florida residents dip any part of themselves in the ocean until the water gets warmer. If you want to meet other tourists on the beach, come here in January. If you want to meet many locals, come sometime between now and October.
We’re kind of fussy that way. We’re used to warmth, obviously, and though the ocean is plenty warm in the wintertime by most people’s standards, it’s not by ours. So we just wait. Now the temp is finally just about right for us, or for me anyway, and somehow I was inspired to wander into the water this morning.
Normally, I take a fast walk or run along the brick-paved path in Fort Lauderdale, do a long meditation on the beach, then go for coffee or breakfast. Today, no one was around when I got to my chosen beach. Wherever it was. So I did some calisthenics on the sand, then took off my gym shoes and socks to stroll the waterline for a long ways before plunking down to face the ocean and clear my head. It was delightful.
If I’d worn my bathing suit, I would have taken a swim. But just getting into the sea again, if only with my feet, together with the awareness that we had entered the season when sensible Floridians decide it’s beach weather at last – all this seemed refreshing to me in some way. I have months to look forward to getting my heartrate up by exercising beside the ocean and, when I want, in the ocean too.
When I finally sat down to think, the feeling was even more satisfying today than usual. The sun glistened off the water, ducking in and out of the blue clouds all morning. Flocks of pelicans scoured the shoreline for food, as many as ten of them in formation like bombers. Nature’s own air and sea show. I buried my wet feet in the sand and made impressions that are long gone as I write this and sand stuck to my calves and ankles. I felt the cool morning seabreeze on my face and planned when I would take my first swim of 2006.
This is what it’s like to live in Florida year round. We do get spoiled. I have clear, very cold memories of jumping into Lake Champlain in Vermont on what seemed like the only day all year, usually in August, when the water temperature reached almost 70 degrees. Almost, but not quite, 70. These days, like most locals, I want water well into the nice warm comfortable 80s, thank you. We’re at that point now, a great time to enjoy the sun and surf here, and I for one am looking forward to a pleasant and sandy and wet summer.
Wednesday, May 24, 2006
May 24: Just Desserts
I have no explanation for it, really. I have no idea why it’s taken me nearly 17 years before I finally tried Jaxson’s Ice Cream Parlor. This is a local institution and everyone goes here – from families to couples to partying singles, residents and tourists alike. As Jaxson’s itself is only too glad to remind you, they’ve been giving their customers “quality since 1956.” So yep, we’re at the half century mark for this combo ice cream parlor and restaurant and country store.
I’ve driven by their location on South Federal Highway in Dania Beach literally hundreds of times. On Sunday, I finally stopped in for a taste. And I’ll be back. Since this was my first visit, I started basic. One of my all-time favorite ice cream desserts is a classic chocolate malt. That’s what I got and it was delicious – so thick I had to use a spoon along with the straw, served in an old-time metal mixing container. Yum.
There are antiques all over the quaint interior. Lots of very old bicycles, for example, and ancient license plates from around the country, antique food tins and more. When you sit down, two things happen right away. You get a glass of water, which you’ll need to wash down that sweet ice cream. And you get a bowl of popcorn, which you don’t need but will eat anyway. It’s popped right there in the restaurant and few can resist dipping in to grab at least a few handfuls.
Jaxson’s has lots of regular food if you’re hungry for more than dessert. Or popcorn. Haven’t tried these yet, of course, but they sound wonderful. There’s a wide variety, including soup and salads, hot pastrami and other deli goodies, chicken and burgers and hot dogs and even steaks. Up front, near the cash register, you can buy old-fashioned candies and treats to take home with you. The country store also has novelty toys, stuffed animals and arcade games.
Jaxson’s is owned and operated by the Udell family, which moved to South Florida in 1946, ten years before this store opened. They brought with them, as their menu explains, “decades of old recipes for ice cream and food preparation.” These folks seem like they know what they’re doing. So pack the kids in the car and head over, or put the convertible top down on some warm night and drop by with your significant other. Or whatever sounds best to you. It can be a cheap date, really – only $1 extra to share one of their huge ice cream concoctions. Or if you’re with a party of four or more people, try their signature “kitchen sink” sundae, which has everything in it AND the kitchen sink too.
Just one last piece of advice about Jaxson’s, and this comes from personal experience. Don’t wait 17 years before you try it.
Monday, May 22, 2006
May 22: Underappreciated, Underused - Part Three
Your sojourn in search of local places that are underappreciated and/or underused continues now in downtown Fort Lauderdale. You had started off at the 17th Street Causeway bridge, large and imposing and underappreciated for sure. Then you had continued on to Colee Hammock Park on SE 15th Avenue, off Las Olas, a concealed little jewel of a park with charming ambiance and views that are very South Florida.
Now it’s time to head to our last stop – a place so little known it has no name. So I’ll call it, “the courtyard.” I was just there a couple of hours ago and had it to myself. Just about any hour of the day or evening when I walk by, few if any people are enjoying this lovely space. Sometimes a couple of employees from nearby buildings are eating a quick lunch. Yet this place seems made for a romantic cityside meal with a glass of wine or espresso.
First, how to find it: The courtyard is on the south side of the 800 block on Las Olas, nestled snugly between two stores. On the east is Joe Picasso’s, a pottery painting studio and café. On the west is Moda Mario, which sells European clothing for men. This courtyard always reminds me of Venice, the kind of interior spot away from the canals that you find when wandering that extraordinary Italian city. Ok, the buildings surrounding the Fort Lauderdale courtyard are newer. A lot newer. Still, there’s a pleasant relaxing feel to this hideaway.
It’s public and it’s free but I sometimes think pedestrians aren’t sure what to make of it. Today, I watched a couple with ice cream cones stop, admire the courtyard, then look around as if they didn’t know whether they were allowed to sit down or not. Then, they left.
For the record, you are allowed to sit down. And you should. There’s a graceful iron gate at each end of the long narrow courtyard. Inside, you’ll find red brick pavers, large potted bushes, stone benches. But best of all are the fountains. There are five pretty seahorse fountains that each drip pleasantly into their own tiny ponds. Sitting on one of the stone benches beside the fountains, you hear the constant trickle softly underneath the sounds of the city around you. Toss a few pennies into one of the fountains and make a wish, if you want. Others have before you. It’s a great escape, this hidden courtyard, accessible and certainly underappreciated.
The courtyard is located among countless restaurants on Las Olas, so you’ll have no trouble finding a place to get some takeout. Or just go to Joe Picasso’s next door, where they sell paninis and salads and coffee and wine and beer and more. Then sit down, relax and enjoy. Stay as long as you like, whether you’re alone or with your partner. No one is likely to bother you. As for me, I’ll keep looking for more underappreciated spots around greater Fort Lauderdale and tell you as I stumble upon them. And if you find some of these places yourself, please post a comment and tell.
Thursday, May 18, 2006
May 18: Underappreciated, Underused - Part Two
Now you’ve driven over the 17th Street Causeway bridge, right? And finally really looked around to appreciate the impressive view … or better, you’ve parked your car and walked to the top of the bridge. Great. Now it’s time to move on to stop number two.
The second little hidden gem falls in the category of both underappreciated and underused. Welcome to Colee Hammock Park. This tiny, charming waterside park is easy to find, though it seems few people bother. If you’re coming from the 17th Street bridge, continue north on Federal Highway and then after driving through Florida’s only tunnel, turn right on Broward Boulevard to head east until you reach SE 15th Avenue. Make a right turn on SE 15th Avenue you have arrived on Las Olas Boulevard, where the Floridian Restaurant sits on the corner. Go straight on 15th Ave to the end of the block and park. You almost surely won’t have any trouble finding a spot.
I stopped by the park both Saturday and Sunday this weekend. On Saturday, a mother and two kids played there briefly. Two older gentlemen sat by the water and chatted. And then there was me. That was it. On Sunday, a few folks lounged on the grass but not many. It was quiet, lovely and delightful, the hallmarks of Colee Hammock. And it’s a great place for a quick romantic escape with your sweetheart.
The park is filled with grand live oak trees, as well as a pretty large banyan. A short walkway winds along one edge of the grass and 11 park benches are scattered around. There’s also a circular stone picnic table with built-in seating. The entire park is visible no matter where you stand within the grounds – it’s that small.
What makes Colee Hammock special is the setting. It is situated across the New River from one of Fort Lauderdale’s true mansions. Other nice houses are visible in both directions along the river. And then there are the boats. The Jungle Queen passes by regularly as do the multi-million dollar yachts. In the space of just three minutes Saturday, two super-expensive private boats passed by me, one from Montreal and the other from Kingston, Jamaica.
Colee Hammock also has a cute sculpture of a young girl on inline skates, a piece dedicated to children. And there’s a monument that marks the spot where the Lewis family built the first white settlement on the New River. This same place was the site of a massacre on January 6, 1836 at the onset of the Second Seminole War. So yes, there’s peace and quiet and relaxation, if you want it. Some history and art, if you prefer that. Or maybe just a glance at how the other, very wealthy, half lives … well, actually it’s probably more like the other 1/100th of one percent. Or you can just sit with your arm around your significant other. Not bad, and all for free. The park is open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
Later this week, we’ll continue our little journey to hidden gem number three, which is tucked away along the busiest section of Las Olas. You’ll want a nice espresso or picnic lunch for this one!
Thursday, May 11, 2006
May 11: Underappreciated, Underused - Part One
As I drift around town these days, I often notice things I might have overlooked before – or at least things I had taken for granted in the past. That’s one of the benefits of writing this blog. I look more closely at this amazing part of the world. And I appreciate it more.
So my next three blogs will feature three spots in Fort Lauderdale that are underappreciated or underused. Or both. They’re all relatively close to each other. And best of all, you could enjoy them in combination if you want – all three as part of a single outing. One of these places is large and obvious. The other two are small and hidden. But I think tourists and especially residents don’t pay enough attention to any of them.
Today’s subject is the 17th Street Causeway Bridge. Like I said, large and obvious. And underappreciated. (This one is definitely not underused, of course! Except perhaps by pedestrians and bicyclists.)
The numbers associated with the bridge are impressive. This massive structure was finished about five years ago at a cost of $62 million. It increased the clearance above the water from just 25 feet to 55 feet. That means the bridge doesn’t have to open so often. And that means traffic isn’t tied up so often.
But the view from this bridge is what makes it special – and underappreciated. If you approach from the west, you crest over the steep swath of pavement to find one of the only panoramic scenes you can catch from your car around here. On the right is Port Everglades. Cruise ships, sometimes Navy ships, tankers, tugs … they’re all tied up at various times. You can see the glistening Intracoastal Waterway and the Convention Center and the port buildings and it’s just a lovely sight.
Straight ahead lays a large expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. I’d driven over this bridge many times before I finally noticed this part of the view, which sits straight ahead in the near distance. It’s a beautiful scene, reflecting the sunlight and spreading east forever.
If you’re coming from the east, enjoy the north view to your right, another angle on the Intracoastal Waterway. This time you see sailboats, yachts, mansions, hotels, waterside restaurants. A grand home known locally as “the White House” (for reasons that are obvious when you see it) sits in the middle of the water, a palace built by some guy who made millions off a little gadget he invented and sold to the auto industry. That whole vista is classic South Florida.
This is where the walking or biking part comes in. Hundreds of motorists cross this bridge daily. Some of them briefly take in the view. (Admittedly, some tourists nearly park on the bridge to take in the view … ) But relatively few of us get out of our cars at one end of the bridge and walk over it to stop and truly soak in the details. Or hop on our bicycles and pedal to the top slowly.
So there’s hidden gem number one, though it is hidden very much in plain sight. Next week, I’ll let you know about a couple of places right off Las Olas that are relaxing, romantic and practically unknown by anyone, locals or visitors. Meantime, have a great weekend – and why not take a very slow walk over that very tall bridge while you’re at it?
Tuesday, May 09, 2006
May 9: How did they do that??
The Blue Angels flew right over my house. That was cool. So I saw what I wanted to see of the Air & Sea Show from my own Florida room this past weekend, the Angels and some of the other great pilots and their aircraft. Didn’t need to go to the beach at all. Until today.
When I left for my regular morning beach exercise and meditation session, I was expecting the worst. I’ve always read about the hordes of people who pack every square inch of sand during this big annual event. It seems like some red-white-and-blue version of Woodstock or something, everyone partying and eating and drinking. With all the trash that goes with it. I thought the city of Fort Lauderdale would need days of clean-up to get the beach back to anything near normal condition. I was wrong.
I arrived at the South Beach parking lot before 8 a.m. on Monday after the show and walked north for many blocks, more than halfway to Sunrise Boulevard. Even that early, the sidewalk was clear of debris. Amazingly, so was the sand. One small spot of South Beach still hadn’t been cleaned when I first got there. But when I passed the same area two hours later, it was as pristine as every other part of the beach.
How did those folks get that huge job done so quickly? I did see a small army of street cleaning trucks and city pickup trucks and so on. But by that time, their efforts seemed more like let’s-give-it-some-finishing-touches rather than let’s-get-started-with-this-mess. I truly was impressed with the condition of the streets, walks and sand at that early time of day, only about 15 hours or so after the Air & Sea Show finale.
Several weeks ago, I wrote about the general cleanliness of Fort Lauderdale’s beach and about how much I appreciate this, being the regular beachgoer that I am. As you may know, the non-profit Clean Beaches Council in Washington has awarded Broward’s beaches the Blue Wave Certification. That means these are some of the cleanest, safest and easiest-to-use beaches in the United States.
But I really was fairly amazed today. I mean, here it is immediately after the biggest beachside event of the year in Fort Lauderdale, and things looked great. There are still barricades and other remnants of the show, but no trash to speak of. It was a pleasure to take my walk, looking out at the expanse of clean tan sand dipping into the sparkling waves, just as on any other day of the year.
So all this to say great job to the hard-working crews who managed to pull off such a fast clean-up. I’m not quite sure how they did it. But I’m grateful.
Monday, May 08, 2006
May 8: No Place Like Home
I’m just back in town after a few days away. I hopped a plane at Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport last week, flying three hours north to Chicago. A great city and one I love. And the King Tut exhibition just moved there for the summer from the Fort Lauderdale Museum of Art. I’m from Detroit originally so the Midwest atmosphere always feels comfortable to me. And Chicago people are terrific. But that said, it’s good to be in Broward again. There really is no place like home. So I couldn’t help myself from coming up with the Top Ten reasons it’s better to be here than there:
10) The sun: You see it here. You don’t there.
9) The airport: O’Hare vs. FLL. Ours is easy.
8) The water: Lake Michigan vs. the Atlantic Ocean.
7) The trees: Pines vs. palms. Theirs are pretty but ours are graceful and exotic.
6) The highways: Theirs are sometimes confusing, with lots of tolls. Ours are usually easier to figure out and free.
5) The temperature: When I left Chicago in May, it was in the 50s, with a damp chilly drizzle. I arrived here with a perfect temperature around 80, and bright sunshine.
4) The potholes: This ties in with the highways but applies to all their roads. Chicago winters are hard on asphalt. Lots of potholes on interstates and city streets. It’s rare to see potholes here. There just aren’t many.
3) The romance: Chicago is a grand but old and industrial-looking city. You have to work at creating romance there. The Fort Lauderdale area smolders with fresh sensuality and the possibility of romantic encounters.
2) The outdoor cafes: Theirs are open in the summer, but I mean, really … I couldn’t sit outside at the end of April because a rooftop restaurant was closed. Too cold. Ours are open 365 days a year.
And the number one reason it’s better to be here than there:
1) The women (and for our female readers, no doubt the men too): Don’t get me wrong. There are many beautiful people in Chicago. But the folks in South Florida exude an enticing energy under those gym-hardened bodies. And then, with the sunshine and warm temperatures and romantic atmosphere … Let’s just say it makes for an intoxicating eye-cocktail.
And there you have it, my little welcome-myself-home list. But I have to get going now. I’m planning a little breakfast at an outdoor café, driving over pothole-less streets to sip coffee under the sun and watch the passing parade downtown. Tomorrow morning, I go to the beach. Ah, it’s so good to be back!
Friday, May 05, 2006
May 5: Into the Wild Blue
I once flew a military supersonic jet. T this day, I think of that flight as one of the most amazing experiences of my life.
By today’s standards, the jet was a dinosaur. It was an F4, the type of fighter aircraft used in Vietnam by the Air Force. My pilot was a former U.S. fighter jock in ‘Nam and we managed to do about as much as we could in that plane. We had a simulated dogfight with our wing man. We did an Immelman maneuver, climbing straight up before rolling upside down, reaching 4.5 Gs in the process. We did parabolic curves where our bodies were weightless for a few moments. Touch and gos, rolls, prolonged upside down flying and more.
And yes, I really did take the controls. I sat in the rear, strapped tightly into an ejection seat, listening to the sound of my own breathing into the face mask. Suddenly, my pilot told me, “Wanna have some fun? Take the stick and push it hard right or hard left.” Sure, I said, fun sounds good. And around we flipped, 360 degrees. He told me to push the stick in the other direction and we rolled again. I flew the jet for a while after that before he took over. And no, I didn’t get sick. Got close once during the touch and gos, but I never lost it.
I was remembering all this today as I did my usual morning beach session in Fort Lauderdale. This weekend, of course, we’ll be hearing military aircraft of all kinds thundering overhead around Broward County as the McDonald’s Air & Sea Show kicks into gear. The U.S. military’s two top fighter jet demonstration teams take turns coming to Fort Lauderdale for these annual shows, carrying out extraordinary flight maneuvers in machines much more powerful than my old F4. This year it’s the Blue Angels who will dazzle the massive crowds along A1A. Next year, the Thunderbirds will be back. The Canadian version of these teams, the Snowbirds, also will dart across our local skies during the weekend’s events. There’s always a variety of other air and sea demos to watch if you make your way to the beach.
Actually, I’ve always thought the cool thing is that you don’t necessarily have to go to the beach to enjoy the show. It’s all free anyway, thanks to corporate sponsorship. But if you’re not into crowds, just keep your eyes and ears open. You can’t miss some of the action. Each year, I see squadrons of planes flying in formation overhead and then watch the jet fighters flash by in the late afternoon – all without straying far from my home.
So catch some of the show, soak up some of the excitement that always builds around the event and appreciate the skill of these highly trained pilots. And if you are not able to be in town for this, you just might catch some of the air action via the beach webcam right here.
Tuesday, May 02, 2006
May 2: From Tut to the Dead Sea
Tut is gone. The Museum of Art Fort Lauderdale isn’t.
As the Boy King packs his golden bags for northern parts, this seemed a good time to say farewell. And hello. Farewell to our royal visitor – it’s been great. Come again, if you’re not doing anything in another decade or two. Hello to the next world-class exhibit coming to town, which arrives later this year.
Though “Cradle of Christianity: Treasures from the Holy Land” doesn’t kick off until early December, I think it’s fairly astonishing that this museum has landed another huge exhibition directly on the heels of King Tut. That may say something about how this museum is perceived in the art world these days – and how Fort Lauderdale itself is seen outside the state.
This also is probably a good time to remind ourselves that the art museum doesn’t go away between now and December. Whether you’re a tourist or a local, the museum makes a great day-outing.
From June 1 through November, the gallery will feature the work of two key members of a group known as the Highwaymen, a loosely affiliated collection of 26 black landscape artists from around Fort Pierce. This exhibit will include 40 vintage works by Alfred Hair and Harold Newton. Aside from the Highwaymen show, other works on display at the museum include a permanent collection by William Glackens, considered among the most influential American impressionist painters of the early 20th century.
So there’s really no shortage of interesting work to enjoy at the art museum this summer. But the next big thing, the “Cradle of Christianity” exhibition, really should be something quite special.
The show will offer archaeological treasures that were dug up in Israel over the past 100 years. Curated and organized by the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, this exhibit will travel to only two venues in this country other than Fort Lauderdale.
There will be a variety of artifacts, including the Temple Scroll, one of the most significant Dead Sea Scrolls. That piece will be on display in Fort Lauderdale for the first time anywhere. Other highlights of the exhibit will be the burial ossuary of Caiaphas, the High Priest who is said to have turned over Jesus to the Romans, and the two largest three-dimensional menorahs ever uncovered by excavation. It doesn’t matter what your personal or religious beliefs are – this will be an exhibition worth marking on the calendar.
As Broward County bids the golden pharaoh a sad but grateful goodbye, we prepare to greet the scroll and all the rest enthusiastically in just a few months. A year from now, when “Cradle of Christianity” has packed up for another city, we’ll be saying adieu just as sadly. And no doubt, looking forward just as much to the next major exhibit that will be coming to town.
|
 |
RSS
